Guys I have a problem with my 2006 Mazda3. Sometimes when I try to crank the car to start it nothing happens. No sound, all the lights turn on and I have to try several times for the car to start cranking and start. When its working starter cranks normally no unusual noises and battery is fairly new. What could cause this problem you guys and how do I fix it?
Thanks
Could be a bad ignition switch. Could be a bad ignition relay. Could be a bad ground. Could be a wire worn through or chewed through by rodents. My list of “could be” could be longer.
Just installing a new ignition relay would take one of those off the list.
My question to you is; Do you own a volt-ohm meter and know how to use it?
Common possibilities
The next time the engine won’t start, shift the transmission into neutral.
If the engine starts, there’s an issue with the park/neutral safety switch.
Tester
Will try putting it in neutral next time. Now guys if it was a bad ground or wire would the car once it doesn’t start it wouldn’t start after several tries. My battery is new and I will check the voltage and charging tomorrow. How do I test the ignition switch? I tried second key and it doesn’t make a difference. what will that red icon with the key on the dash tell me? If it turns off the key/immobilizer is working? How long do the starter motors last, I mean the car is about 18 years old.
Yes I do own it. What can I check with it?
The contacts are worn in the starter solenoid, replace the starter assembly.
Start by checking for battery voltage at the starter itself. It should be the same as the battery. Check resistance from the negative terminal to the enbine block.mit should be nearly zero. Wiggle the battery clamp and re-test.
Change the start relay. They are cheap and easy to reach and it eliminates one possible failure point.
Hook the voltmeter to the battery, start the car while watching the meter. It should not drop below 9 volts. If the car fails to start, check the battery voltage when you turn the key. If the voltage does not drop, that tells you it is not a starter windings problem. Smack solenoid with a small hammer. Try and start…might be the starter solenoid if it does.
Pull the start relay and probe the signal from the ecu when you turn the key to start. No signal means no relay closure and no start. Head over to test the ignition switch.
That should keep you busy for a while.
I expect @Nevada_545 is correct. If I had this symptom before replacing the starter motor (which can be a pretty big job on some cars) I’d measure the voltage at both of the starter’s electrical connections when the key is in “start”. They should both be 10.5 volts or above. Probe between the terminal and the starter case as that would usually show up any ground connection problem.
Even a perfectly functioning starter motor won’t work if it doesn’t get the correct input power voltages.
