I just got my brake calipers and my brakes fixed, also I put in brake fluid in my car and my car will not stop the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor and when I tried to drive I had to put the ebrake on the car. will I have to get a new master cylinder? and what is the cost I seen it online for a part at 80$ but how much will labor cost if this is the promblem
my brake pads.
I presume you know that you should stop driving this car until the problem is resolved. Tow it to the shop you did the prior brake work. It may be something simple. Let them fix it rather than guessing.
Your symptom could be caused by a failed master cylinder, but usually when they fail, they don’t fail all of a sudden and completely like this. Instead you’ll start to notice at first the brake pedal will move toward the floor a little more than normal when pushing on the brake, and keep moving slowly toward the floor if you keep pushing. So I expect you have a different problem than that. Leaking caliper, failed brake connection or hose, low fluid level, or just the brakes need proper air bleeding…
Can’t speak to your make/model, but replacing the brake MC on my Corolla is about an hour, 1.5 hour, job I’d guess. So estimate $125 labor plus the parts cost. $80 seems a little low on the parts cost for an oem Audi MC. Are you sure that’s the oem version?
if im no5 mistaken is this the right part? http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pn.aspx?sku=14334144-8E0611021&vehicle=2007%20Audi%20A4%20QUATTRO%20&brand=TRW%2FLucas-Girling&utm_source=google&utm_medium=nonpaid&utm_campaign=froogleSKU_Audi&gclid=CJCW8IjJ_NACFQe2wAodEhgFBg
The part number needed depends on year and possibly on the engine configuration of your audi. Probably the quickest way to get to the bottom of it is to use the rock auto website. You can usually type in the vin number of the car. If it remains in the original configuration, that removes the car specific ambiguities.
Can you elaborate?
Honestly, I think the best approach is to have the car towed to the shop that did the brake work (or another if you’ve lost faith in them) and have them assess the problem. Whether it’s an MC, failure to properly bleed the system (that’d be my guess), or something else, they gave you back a car not safe to drive. IMHO trying to guess what it might be and changing that is not only going to be costly, but in this case it could be downright dangerous.
So, whoever replaced the calipers and pads failed to bleed the brakes and refill the master cylinder?
If that is the case, then I strongly suggest that you not return to that mechanic for replacement of the master cylinder.
Nice catch, VDC. If the OP had to add fluid after getting the car back, I’d say the shop that did the work overlooked a few steps. Like filling and bleeding the system.
I hope the have the calipers on the correct sides, bleeder on top. Perhaps a new shops is an excellent next step!
I see no mention of a shop. perhaps the work was done by a well intentioned but ignorant friend.
could also be a bleeder valve left loose.