Cant Remove Hub Caps. Lost Wheel Lock Key

Weld a nut to the face of that lock, unscrew it, throw it away.

Hammer and chisel.

Sears sells a kit called a BOLT OUT SET.

http://c.shld.net/rpx/i/s/i/spin/image/spin_prod_207242301?hei=315&wid=315&op_sharpen=1&resMode=sharp&op_usm=0.9,0.5,0,0

You pound the socket onto the fastener, and remove the fastener with a socket/wrench

Tester

I decided against usign wheel locks after Sears shop lost my key and I urgently needed to remove lock-nuts and Google returned an advise which let me do that in under 10 minutes for all 4 wheels.

instructions are super-simple:

  • get a standard 12-star socket slightly smaller than nut
  • hammer it on the nut (yes, it will damage the nut, but socket will survive)
  • unscrew
  • just before removing nut from the stud - wiggle the extension up/down to get socker off that nut - works much better than trying to use punch or something else to get nut out of socket
  • repeat on remaining nuts

it took me literally 10 minutes, including time to Google it and to curse about spending $30 on these stupid nuts

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Exactly so! Youtube has videos on this if you look.

I hope y’all understand it took an amateur 10 minutes. An inner city dude will probably do it in seconds per wheel with a battery powered impact tool on that socket thingie. Heh, heh.

This is why I always have two security tools, one in the glove compartment and one with the tools in a bag.

When I bought my Mexican Sienna, it had only one security tool. I went into Wal-mart in Tehuacan, and they had a kit with 4 security nuts and two of the tools. I replaced what was on the car. In some cases, Advanced has those kits in your size.

I guess I’m not familiar enough with that type of lock but it looks like there is nothing to grab onto. Looks like it’s the serrated bolt but surrounded by that washer. Maybe pound a couple three 10 Penney nails in the serrations and crank it off. I’d be welding the nut on if it were me though.

I have been able to remove many of those by inserting a flat blade screw driver in the shaped grove of the lock screw, they are installed with a T-handle and usually not very tight. That is easier than searching the entire vehicle for the key. Customers don’t seem to consider leaving the key in the cup holder, then checking if it is returned when picking up the vehicle, things get left on the bench.

The problem with pounding a socket onto the screw is the wheel cover and retaining cap will flex and bounce back with each strike.

I had a similar problem one time where I had a flat and the lug nut key was so rusty that it ripped the guts out of the key when I tried to use it. This was on a 1992 Ford F150 (still driving it). I found that a 21mm deep well socket was a tight fit so I pounded the socket onto the locking lug nut and then removed the lug nut with a breaker bar. Then I had to do it again on the other wheel. Then recently I bought two new tires for the front. The tech asked me for the lug nut key but I had left it at home. I asked him if they had a way of removing the lug nuts without the key. He said they could but it would destroy the locking lug nut. I told him that was ok and they proceeded to change the tires and replaced the locking lug nut with regular lug nuts. Or you could hire your neighborhood car thief. I am sure they would know how. :):slight_smile:

A chisel will easily turn that.