Then you bought a Prestone branded “green” coolant - not the “universal.” “Prestone” isn’t a type of coolant. It’s a brand that markets all manner of different auto fluids.
“Green” was/is an old style coolant that needed to be replaced every couple of years / 30-40Kish (I think). Then all sorts of “long life” coolants came out (like Dexcool - ORANGE, originally) that were more like 5 yrs/100K and now they’re billed even longer.
Prestone, the brand, at some point put out a yellow “universal.” Don’t confuse brand with its formulation.
But more to the point:
[quote=“VOLVO-V70, post:19, topic:194936, full:true”] [quote=“itouring2010, post:17, topic:194936”] i argue because on the container and on the site with info it says the prestone fluid we got to replace is compatible with all OAT, POAT, HOAT and IAT coolant fluids [/quote]
Then why are you even asking ? Just use the stuff. [/quote]
Yes, it is compatible, it will not blow up or kill you with in minutes, but that is not saying that it will work correctly long term when mixing fluids…
I am not a chemical engineer, sorry, all I know is when I was told not to mix shit by people much smarter than me, I didn’t mix the shit, your life, your money, your decision as to what you do.
WE ALL have basically said IT IS A BAD IDEA TO MIX COOLANT (long term)…
By the way, if you are out trail riding and get very low on brake fluid, you can pee in the master cylinder too get you back to safety, BUT don’t leave it like that cause you will have lots of bad issues very soon…
You can also run straight water in a cooling system, drag/circle track cars that run radiators do this all the time, but they drain it when back home/shop, but it would be a very bad idea to run straight water for any length of time in the vehicle in question here…
That reminds me of a needle scaler (close) from my days working on big all terrain telehandler fork lifts and all the equipment that went with the business, and having to rebuild the mortar mixers…
Heh heh. I got one of those universal sockets for a gift. The one time I needed it, I couldn’t find it. Now that I found it, I don’t need it, but I now know where it is.
I have one. Not that “brand” but the same thing. It’s handy sometimes. E.g. when I’m crawling under “a” car to do an oil change I don’t need to remember the pan bolt size anymore, or go with a handful of wrenches/sockets. 12mm? 13? 14? 15? yada. F’it - grab that thing-a-ma-gig. I finally bought one (they’re cheap) when my brother sent me a text about using one to get a partially rusted-out wing-nut off of a something-or-other. They don’t care much about the specific shape or size (up to about 7/8"). They’re still rather limited in their uses though.
I have the full sae and metric but I guess there are others out there but I refuse to buy and store more, in hemmings this month terry shea was working on vw brakes and ran across the XZN bolts. Never heard of that one either so the universal just might come in handy.
I was actually talking about that socket tool reminding me of a needle scaler used for removing dried on mortar/concrete, nothing a like (except for the needles), just made me think about it… An extremally loud obnoxious tool… lol
@itouring2010.Sorry to be so blunt, but since you don’t agree with the advice/opinions of the posters here, some of which are professional mechanics. Since you already intend to use it go ahead I really don’t care if you screw something up.
I just love people that will only listen to advice or opinions of others when it agrees with their own.
Not disputing the wisdom of following manufacturers recommendations for fluids but just offering my “lucky” (?) experiences.
Presently 2000 Toyota, 2007 Kia and 2015 Mitsubishi in the family that I maintain . Approximately 400,000 miles total. All run and shift like new. Never looked at colors just went with Preston’s universal type coolant in everything ( same with Valvoline universal ATF fluid in conventional automatics & CVT universal in CVT )
I change frequently so I’m sure the original fluids are long gone but they definitely started out mixed.
From my experience, the color is not relevant nowadays, it is the chemical basis of the coolant. I believe my Hyundai calls for OAT coolant only and I have used generic OAT coolant of whatever brand (probably SuperTech, wal-mart too) and it has been fine.
P.S……I Recently bought a 2024 Chevy Trax. You can be sure I’ll be using the manufacturer recommended fluids in that over stressed little 1.2L “experiment”.
I AGREE, am looking forward to my first electric—soon-- but I do know that EVs do have a cooling system. Don’t know more than that right now, but was surprised to learn that fact.
Gotta keep on studying, before I purchase…
Early on Tesla, and most others found that by keeping the big battery in a narrow range of temperatures gave it the longest life span. To do that requires a cooling and heating system. Yes, it adds complexity but it’s absolutely necessary.
Nissan infamously tried an “air cooled” big battery in their original Leaf. It failed spectacularly! With in 2 or 3 years the range of the car dropped dramatically and they learned their lesson. I believe they had a big recall.
My 2017 Chevy Volt heats and cools the battery and my projected range hasn’t reduced in the 7 years I’ve owned it.
