hey everyone. I ran into a bit of a problem. I broke the stabilizer connecting rod its a little pin the pivots that’s connected to the stabilizer bar and goes into the traverse link I believe.
am I able to still drop the car with this broken or do I need to leave it up on stands now?? everything else is connected except that broken rod,
Thank-you
That’s just the stabilizer bar end link.
You can drop the vehicle. But replace the end link(s) before you put the vehicle back on the road.
Tester
Thanks tester for the quick reply. Axles are out and car is dropped. Tomorrow comes the trans and clutch/flywheel.
Ill definitely replace it before I get it on the road. I found one at rockauto if I cant get one locally for 20$ shipped.
Not meaning to be disagreeable on an issue previously mentioned, but I can’t believe that wheel bearings will be damaged due to the halfshafts being out of the car.
I’ve towed cars for several hundred miles with the halfshafts out and there’s never been a problem with wheel bearings.
Wheel bearings are usually held in place by the knuckle casting and a snap ring and off the top of my head I can’t think of a car in which the bearings are just floating around in the knuckle.
@ok4450
There are actually special tools that bolt in place of the axle shaft, so that the car can be rolled around
Unfortunately, I can’t recall the manufacturer or for what exact cars they were for
The fact that such things exist, not to mention the numerous stories I’ve heard about guys damaging their wheel bearings rolling their car around with no axle shafts, makes me think this is more than just an urban legend
@db4690 " …it feels insufficient…"
And that my good man is refreshing. Opinions are good ! Especially those born out of experience. Anyone can regurgitate what we read out of a periodical or a research paper. But in a discussion, having it put into context through experience by those who did and still do work on the field makes everything relevant.
Sorry, I’m not buying it and I speak as one who unfortunately has had the dubious privilege of shoving countless cars in and out of a shop with the halfshafts removed. That also applies to countless other mechanics in countless other shops over decades along with those vehicles that have been towed sans halfshafts; in some cases towed clean across the country.
More than a few Subarus have had their front or rear shafts removed and motored on forever as a 2WD car instead of AWD with no wheel bearing issues. I’m one of them as I once owned a 4WD Subaru with a failing front differential. The car was a beater so I dropped the front shafts and put about 100k miles on it as a RWD car. It was retired at 300k miles with the original front wheel bearings…
To keep an open mind, I’ll gladly listen to a technical explanation of how a wheel bearing can fail on a car that is being pushed in and out of a shop sans the shafts.
@ok4450
Respectfully, I don’t care if you’re not buying it
Everybody has the right to believe whatever they want
That includes you and I
I’m sticking to my guns, as are you
you’re not some customer that I’m trying to upsell. I don’t have a financial incentive to convince you of anything. Nor do I have the ability, or the fancy words to explain my position
Let’s just forget it and move on
If you want to keep going, that’s fine. But I won’t respond, because there is nothing left to say
I’m done with this particular thread
Well, I hate to go through life not knowing something and have usually made it a point to learn something if I’m ignorant about it.
At this point I’m still ignorant of the reasoning behind the failed wheel bearing sans halfshaft theory.
There is a snap ring to keep bearing in knuckle but no snap ring to keep hub in bearing. The only thing that keeps hub mated to bearing is axle and nut. Hopefully this part explosion helps. This is from Alldata.
“The only thing that keeps hub mated to bearing is axle and nut.”
In many cars, like my Hondas, the hub is pressed into the inner race of the bearing.
I understand the point now with your saying that the wheel and hub will separate itself from the wheel bearing. This is a bit different than the wheel bearing being damaged by pushing a car in and out of a shop.
My experience has been with VW, SAAB, Honda, Nissan, Fiat, Subaru, with a dash of Mazda and in all of my years I’ve never had a problem nor have any co-workers had issues with shoving a car in and out of a shop sans the halfshafts and/or transaxle.
I’ve also never seen a factory tool listing or reference in any factory shop manual about precautions on something like this.
No idea how I managed to tow a Mitsubishi over 400 miles with both halfshafts in the trunk.
Hey everyone
Basically done the clutch change. While assembling I ran into an issue.
I found What looks like this small hose adapter not the part where the filter is located but on the smaller chamber that is attached between it and the engine. Im guessing a hose attaches to it but must have disconnected it without knowing when I pulled out it out. This is picture 1.
I also found the only free hanging hose. It looks like it may run into the engine somewhere but could just be redirected round the engine. Picture 2.
Would these 2 go together or are they possibly breather tubes or something.