Can anyone give me information on how much this will cost to get fixed?

This is my back passenger tire wheel well



Just a wild guess . . . the rest of the car is also rusting away

Don’t shoot the messenger, please

If, by some miracle, that is the only rust on the car, you’d still need to find an unrusted donor vehicle and cut out a huge section and weld it onto your car

Lots of labor involved, and you’d have to find a shop willing to perform the repair. I’d imagine that some shops would not want to do the work, and if they did, they wouldn’t offer any kind of guarantee on the parts and labor

This may sound extreme, but it may be time to start planning for the next car. Of course, a lot depends on the age, value and condition of the car

Find a bender muffler guy, now he welded my split catalytic converter for 10 bucks, sorry but had a welder bud that put in new metal plate for rusted body shock attachment point 10 bucks, some backyard repairs can work.

What @db4690 said. The picture shows serious structural rust that I bet is in many other places. I would have the whole car checked out.

It seems like you are only showing us the tip of the iceberg.

If it’s that bad on one side I will bet it is close to the same on the other. Start car shopping.

It’s time to inspect the rest of the car’s underbody and other parts. This may be the tip of the iceberg and the car may be very unsafe, especially in a collision. If the rest is this bad too, a bad pothole or sudden emergency swerve may cause something really bad to happen.

If the rest of the car is acceptable, I would start making phone calls to body shops and garages and see if anyone is willing to fabricate a patch for this. I had to do this years and years ago with a late 70s car where the right front subframe was corroded away. (this was during the famous period where US manufacturers supposedly bought some cruddy steel from Japan)

I was able to get a local shop to fab a robust patch for a few hundred dollars, and it lasted the life of the car–at least the years I had it.

This is perhaps the most rotted tower I’ve ever seen still on the road. This isn’t just rust, it’s serious cancer in the advanced stages. I strongly recommend that you go shopping for a replacement vehicle. This vehicle is no longer safe IMHO.

I hate to have to join the chorus of negative responses, but I think that it is time for the OP to face reality regarding this mystery vehicle. The amount of visible damage is such that actually finding any solid metal to which somebody could weld a patch is very slim.

In fact, if the shock absorber mounting area is this badly rotted, the brake lines are almost surely in the same condition, i.e.–dangerous. Put it all together, and this vehicle is beyond repair on any kind of a logical basis.

Trying to repair the rust damage on this vehicle is like rearranging the deck chairs on the Titanic.
No matter what you do with it, it is going down…

I wouldn’t get out of the driveway in that car.

If everything else is ok, that’s the only rust problem, I expect it could be fixed for $2 - $3 K. Maybe $1500 if you don’t want it to look perfect. But like the others say, this type of rust problem usually means either the car needs to be retired, or a full body-off-frame restoration is required.

That thing is a menace to public safety and has reached the breaking apart on the roadway point.
It may be time to load the trunk and back seat down with scrap metal and head, very slowly, to the nearest recycler.

It might even be wise to let a tilt-bed truck haul it to the recycler. There’s not much holding that shock on, and I’ll bet lunch that there’s a lot more rot that isn’t in the photo.

That vehicle is seriously unsafe. I beg you, I urge you, don’t drive it anymore. One good bump, one pothole, and the whole area could easily fall apart… and rip the brake line open when it does.

I have driven two cars to the recycling yard with a lot less rust on them. This vehicle is unsafe, and likely has much rust elsewhere. It should be condemned and would likely be by a state auto safety inspector.

Well, since the OP has not come back to answer the basics on the car, I’m going to say it will cost more than the car was brand new.