I happened to have some DeoxIT D100L.
So just to experiment, I applied some to both male and female, plugged it back in.
The “4” setting now works about 80% of the time. When it doesn’t come on, I switch it 0, wait a moment, then back to 4 and it comes on.
QUESTION (2):
Is applying DeoxIT a valid temporary solution? Should I be concerned with further heat issues?
Is there a solution that does not require stripping out this wiring and put a new one in (that could require taking a part much of the dash I’m assuming).
If the DeoxIT restored most of the functionality with one spray, try it again. I assume that you can see the plug side contacts but not the receptacle side. Spray it in the receptacle again and see if it helps. If not, try putting a thin abrasive in the receptacle like a thin file or emery paper. If the oxidation isn’t completely removed yet, the abrasive might get the contact clean again. When I’ve encountered burned contacts before, I replaced the receptacle and whatever plugged into it. In my case, it was a headlight and its receptacle.
No and Yes. Look at the other pins. They are pristine. The overheated pins have lost their protective finish so they will probably develop oxidation fairly rapidly if the right conditions exist.
More importantly, something caused them to overheat so that needs to be corrected.
Yes, but it means finding the right parts and having some soldering skills. Those pins can be replaced. There will be a small tab on the metal pin that retains it in the housing. Usually, a small jewelers screwdriver can be used to press it in and push the pin back out of the housing. Then cut it off, strip the wire and crimp the new pin. If you don’t have a crimper, a needle nose will suffice to form the pin around the insulation and stripped wire, followed by soldering to finish the connection.
You may also be able to find what is called a “pig tail” which is that plug already loaded with pins and wires but only about 6" long. Then you can splice it in place of the existing one. Or just extract a couple of the pins that are burned and replace just those. There are options…
Clean the connector as best you can but do not get too aggressive. A fine file of even the edge of a small flat blade screwdriver to knock off the big stuff is enough.
Then go to a hardware store like HD or Lowes, or an electrical supplier and get a small bottle of “NOALOX”. This is what is used by linemen and electricians to insure a good connection of wires and contacts they work on. It will neutralize the corrosion and ensure a conductive path. BUT, be careful, this is highly conductive so do not allow any of it to bridge between contacts or you will short out your connector. I would use a tooth pick to apply to the contacts, both the male and female.
Yeah, the root of the bottom middle blade shows blackened plastic. I can’t tell how discolored the blade is from this photo. More light on the top and a view of the bottom may prove instructive.
Update: I just filed it down the male blade a bit, added some DeoxIT, and it started working again.
However I also have a pig-tail for the female side that just came in the mail, and just ordered some shrink butt connectors. I may just replace the car-side (in the first picture), since that had more damage.
