So my car has been bucking around 1700 yo 2200 rpm, its a manual and once im over the 2200 it does fine, but has thrown no codes, is it possible a cylinder isnt sparking and its not thowing the code possibly?
When was the last time that the fuel filter was changed?
Not sure, i bought the car about 7 months ago and havent in that time frame,idk about bedore i bought it
Do you realize that we have no clue as to the model, model year, and odometer mileage of your car?
If you provide some additional information, someone might be able to be of more help.
In any event, if you have no maintenance records for this car, you have to assume that no maintenance was ever done. For starters, I would suggest having the “major” service for the mileage closest to your current odometer mileage done.
Its a 2001 hyundai tiburon with 163755 mi on it, i have regulary had oil done and typical maintenance, but never oil filter or anything like that, also havent checked spark plugs, or the plug wires
I appreciate your help
You have changed the oil, but not changed the oil filter???
Oil filter has been changed, but is it possiblr that could be causing it?
No, an oil filter–especially one that has been changed as required–would have nothing to do with the problem that you report. However, a semi-clogged fuel filter could be a causative factor.
In any event, when buying an older, high mileage used car with an unknown maintenance record, it is really important to assume that NO maintenance has been done for… maybe… years.
Even though it has nothing to do with your stated problem, I have to point out to you that your engine has a timing belt, and at 163k miles, that belt should have been replaced once already, and is coming-up on the need for its second timing belt change. Unless you have hard copy evidence that the timing belt was replaced at the specified 90k miles–or shortly thereafter–you have to have this maintenance performed… yesterday. Your engine is of the “interference” design, and when the belt snaps–with no warning whatsoever–the damage to the pistons and valves will lead to a repair cost likely exceeding the book value of the car.
So… forget about the bucking problem for the moment, and instead get the car into a repair shop immediately to have the likely overaged timing belt replaced. Have the water pump and the belt tensioners replaced at the same time as the timing belt.
When the car is in the shop for the vital timing belt job, you might want to have them investigate/diagnose the bucking problem also, but if you are short of money at the moment, I suggest that you “live” with the bucking problem until sometime after the timing belt, water pump, and belt tensioners have been replaced.
I would jack one of front wheels and try rotating the wheel back&forth few times to get an idea if an excessive free-play is present.
160K miles on the car, maintenance history is not well known.
I might assume that it might still run on the original transmission fluid, and then the final drive gear might be pretty much worn and it might account for some bucking on relatively low engine loads.
I’ve been there, seen that.
Luckily on my old clunker I was able to adjust the freeplay and replace the gear oil to stop it.
Thank you very much
Bucking can be caused by clogged fuel injectors or a faulty throttle position sensor. If the computer thinks the driver has let their foot off the gas pedal – even if they haven’t – it may still shut off the fuel injectors. This is done to increase mpg and normally causes no problem b/c the driver really has let their foot off the gas pedal and intends to slow down. In normal operation shutting off the fuel injectors is followed by turning them back on (to prevent engine stalling as the engine rpm slows). If something goes wrong with that system it can cause bucking, usually noticed most in slow speed neighborhood driving Before I’d go down that path however I’d bring all the routine engine maintenance up to spec, according to the manufacture’s recommended time interval chart. It has to be done anyway, and it might fix the problem, so no need to do the other stuff at all.
I was actually just thinking of getting some fuel injector cleaner, and also changing my fuel filter
So we were kinda on the same page😂 i appreciate your advice
At 164 K , hard to argue a dose or two of fuel injector cleaner wouldn’t be worth a try. No harm done, and it might just do the trick or at least present a clue.
Exactly, and there has been a couple times ive drove with my gas tank very close to empty, and its possible it sucked up some gunk and the fuel filter needs changed
A gasoline internal combustion engine requires four conditions to function.
These are air, fuel, spark, and compression.
Remove any of these conditions, and the engine shuts off.