Anyone else having trouble with it dying or dying we putting it in reverse
You’re going to have to give us WAY more information
year
engine
fuel injection or carburetor
manual or automatic
and so on
1 Like
Also mileage,
recent maintenance history,
description of exactly what the symptoms are and under what circumstances they’re occurring.
How long you’ve owned the car helps too.
- Fuel injection , 5.8. Engine automaltic just did a tune up on it a month ago changed the tranny. Filter just about every time we go to back up it dies if we half to hard breaks it dies slowing down to stop it dies
The problem might be with the Idle Air Control valve.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=46765&cc=1106086&jsn=480
The IAC valve is what controls the engines idle speed whenever the accelerator is released.
One way to test for a defective IAC valve is, when the engine is up to temperature and idling, take the handle of a screwdriver and rap on the IAC valve.
If the engine idle speed changes when doing this, there’s a problem with the IAC valve.
Tester
Clean the Idle Air Control valve and the port it attaches to. Also clean the throttle body. If properly cleaned and operating properly the IAC should step the idle up when you shift into any gear, when you turn the steering wheel and when the AC is turned on (if it works). If the idle doesn’t speed up as it should the valve is not operating as it should for any number of reasons. Clean the throttle, test the idle and post back.
That has been changed sorry I just him
You could also have a problem with the brake booster. The booster uses the engine vacuum to help you apply the brakes, and if there’s a leak in the vacuum line or the booster itself the engine will feel a vacuum leak.
A simple vacuum leak in a rubber vacuum line is another possibility. Since you’re using a shop, tell him these things have been suggested as possibilities and ask him to check. Make sure he knows that you are not trying to do his diagnosis for him, only asking him to check for these possibilities. He’ll know how and should understand.
Help us help you. Read over what you post before you post it. I don’t know what “half too hard” means, nor do I know what “I just him” means.
I’m not positive, but I believe she means that it dies when they back the vehicle up and stop and if they have to brake hard.
To specifically answer your original question, no, I have never had any trouble with your truck stalling when I back it up.
Thank you to everyone for there in put I will pass it on and hope we get our truck back soon…
Ok another one 2006 mazda 3 just stalls out while driving. Have to wait almost an hour before it will start. Had it tuned up I thinking a month ago checked battery had to pit it on the charger . went to start it and nothing the check engine bliks7 times it is a manual transmission
There are a number of possible causes for your symptoms that include a bad battery, a bad alternator, and a bad brake booster (all in combination), and you could also have a component that’s become heat sensitive, but one thing I noticed is that you “had it tuned up”. That’s fine for routine maintenance, but when trying to get a problem fixed you should, rather than tell the shop what to do, give the shop as clear a description of the problem as possible and let the mechanic determine why it’s happening. That’s his area of expertise. That knowledge is what you pay him for.
Honestly, I think the car needs to go to a reputable mechanic with a clear description of the symptoms (write it down ahead of time if that helps you) and a request to diagnose and repair the causes.