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I have a 2004 Chevy 1500. I replaced my rear brake pads on Monday. I noticed all week that the rear brakes were running hot, but the salesman at the parts store told me that it was okay. Friday I pulled off the pads and saw that one side had started to burn. Saturday I replaced the calipers and another set of pads. Today, Sunday, I noticed that the rear brakes are still hotter than the front brakes. What else could it be?

Even when I drive down a road and coast to a stop, the rear brakes are hot.

Be sure you didn’t install the calipers with a twist in the hose. Also, check your caliper slides for freedom of movement. These are where the caliper mounting bolts install, and they should slide out of the anchor freely and be covered in brake system grease. If they won’t move, they will have to be “persuaded”, cleaned up, and re-greased. Third, if the pads were not easy to install (force should not be required to get them onto the caliper anchor), they may need to be ground down where they ride on the anti-rattle clips. Come to think of it, I can’t remember the last Chevy truck I did rear brakes on that DIDN’T need the pad mounting ears ground down to make them work properly.

I have a 2002 Subaru Forester, which in most respects is a fantastic car. All except for its brakes. I have had them checked numerous times and nothing ever seems to be wrong. (I think I’ve only had the pads changed once or twice since getting the car 3 years ago). But it feels like they are incredibly weak. I have to press very far to fully stop, I feel like I glide too far once I’ve pressed the brake. Sometimes they shudder and I do glide a bit if I slam on the brakes (not even when going very fast). This is very distressing and I’m worried about an accident. Beyond having them checked by a mechanic, is there anything I can do?

Gardiner, you need to start your own thread. This one is for discussing What-am-I-doing-wrong’s question.

What / wrong, your brakes are dragging. Now you need to find out why…How does the parking brake work? Is it a factor here? You have eliminated stuck calipers, but the caliper must be free (more or less free) to slide on its mount… (floating caliper)…The next suspect is the rubber flex lines…

Try this test. Jack up the problem wheel(s)…Step firmly on the brake pedal and release. Can you turn the wheel by hand? You can expect some drag, but you should be able to turn the wheel by hand…If not, find out WHY not. If you momentarily open the bleeder does fluid squirt out and the brake then release? That is usually a bad flex-line preventing return fluid flow…Tap the caliper lightly with a heavy hammer. Does it release then? That means the caliper is jammed on it’s mounting…