Aw, and lose all this fun talk?
I edited my remark after reading further and seeing @cdaquila’s post.
In PA tires are pulled for a visual inspection of brakes (1 front 1 rear IIRC), thickness of pads, rotor, gouges in rotor etc are checked. The mechanic pulling it into and out of the bay is the test drive. Independent shops handle the inspection.
In DE the state has stations where you accelerate and hit the brakes on a pad of some sort that measures the deceleration. The brake pads could be thin as paper but if you stop you pass.
The now-discontinued safety inspection in NJ included the inspector getting into each car, checking parking brake, and then accelerating onto a grid system, where he would jam on the brakes. There were visual indicators of the front-to-rear balance of the brake system.
brake boosters will NOT cause a low pedal unless physically broken internally… and then NO pedal,
if you have removed the self adjusters and that is no issue IF you youse a spring to LOCK the adjuster in place … what you need to do is use 3 brake line clamps on the flexible hoses to work out where you are loosing the brake pedal and work back from there …it is highly probable from what i have read that you still have air in the braking system AND I have never seen your car and live in Australia
Repairing a hydraulic system problem on this vehicle is easy enough, if the OP can’t accomplish that, I doubt that he could convert the vehicle to a mechanical brake system, yet there seems to be a dozen people that fear that action.
Mechanical brakes are only used on motorcycles, ATVs and row boats.
It seems like Mr. Fixit and Tex-Rebel living next door to each other is a good thing . Just feel sorry for the people on the other side of them.
Years ago we had “safety inspections”. You could swap out your bad tires with good then swap them back after the inspection. Yes people did that. Your headlights could fail immediately after the inspection. LEOs didn’t seem to care, as long as there was a current sticker on the car.
Well, for that matter, I used to have to get the timing adjusted twice a year on my POS '74 Volvo. It ran like hammered excrement in order to pass the emissions test, . After getting the passing sticker, I would have the timing adjusted so that it ran properly.
it’s at least 1 front 1 rear, I’ve had mechanics pull all 4 too (no, not an AWD vehicle, just a garage run by guys who like to tack on as many upcharges as they can while not documenting in their computer. They tried to tell me that I didn’t purchase hazard warranty on tires one time when I had, needless to say I don’t use them anymore)…on the back of the inspection sticker they’re supposed to mark which tires they pulled. My mechanic now just alternates between years (FL RR 1 year and FR LR next year)
Are there any states with vehicle safety inspections which are NOT run by private garages . . . ?!
I would think a state-owned garage staffed by state employees would have less conflict of interest
to be clear, I’m thinking a state-owned garage staffed by state employees who do NOT stock wipers, tires, bulbs and so forth, and furthermore are not allowed to perform repairs. Thus, they couldn’t care less where you buy those things, in case you do fail.
Anything like that exist at this time . . . ?!
Anything like that exist at this time . . . ?!
If not it need’s to.
Delaware’s inspection is run by the state.
Well, we used to have that in NJ.
Governor Christine Todd Whitman privatized the inspection process, using employees of Parsons Technologies to carry out the safety inspections at state-owned facilities. (Her supposed cost-cutting measure turned out to be a give-away to Parsons because the costs of those inspections skyrocketed after a couple of years.)
Then, Governor Chris Christie eliminated everything except for emissions testing, but the testing is still done by Parsons employees at state-owned facilities.
No conflict of interest, I suppose?
They don’t try to sell you tires and brakes?
If it’s a case of “You need a set of tires. Come back when you have them, and we’ll re-inspect your vehicle” then that would be objective and without conflict of interest
Correct on DE no conflict of interest. If you fail they send you on your way and how you fix it is your business, but they have a time limit to it.
One thing that worked to my favor was bringing a car in from PA (giving it to my son) had CEL on occasion due to a random problem. We cleared the code just before we entered the inspection bay. The inspector hooked up their computer and quickly gave us the stink eye as I am sure his readout showed the reset. But DE rules did not require any run time after a code is reset.
I don’t believe he could do it either. What I am concerned about is the failed attempt.
What motorcycle or atv has mechanical brakes?? None I have ever owned. Even my kids electric ATV has hydraulic brakes…
Honda NX 650 (Dual sport); hydraulic front, mechanical rear
Honda Fourtrax 250; hydraulic front, mechanical rear
Honda Fourtrax 90; cable front and rear
Yamaha Blaster; cable front, mechanical rear
So nice of you to recite the inspection procedure in your state (or at least your understanding of it), Care to summarize the other 49 plus all the variations within some of the states.
By the way , All Chrysler Corp car since their start in 1924have had 4 wheel hydraulic brakes. Duesenberg beat them to the market in 1923 but their brakes lacked some key components and in 1924 they used Chrysler patent brakes.
By the way, I am not a professional mechanic but was a truck and bus driver for 55 years and been around pro mechanics my whole working life and they come in good and bad. Anyone who spends a lot of time in a shop quickly learns that everybody except the worst mechanic knows how to rank them from best to worst.
The car the OP needs, a Hudson with triple safe brakes. In case of a hydraulic failure, further depression of the brake pedal operated the steel cable emergency brakes.