Can someone point me to an extension adapter for a braker bar (not sure what the technical term is)?
The braker bars I have, the anvil takes up too much space. So I’m looking for an extension for it. Something similar to this
that has a lower profile. However this has a chain connecting the two ends so you can wrench. This limits the amount of torque that can be applied on it, the chain. I just want a solid bar with a hole in it that I can insert the end of a braker bar in, and the other end an adapter so I can attached a socket to it. I’d ideally like something low profile to get into tight spaces.
I’m NOT looking for extensions like this
that would be perpendicular to the braker bar, but something in parallel to extend the leverage I have. I know I can just use a “cheater pipe”, but I’d like something that is a bit more safe.
why not just get something like this…
Yep. That’s the exact one I use. I’ve had it for years and it hasn’t broken, so it’s probably defective by Harbor Freight standards.
I have used a piece of galvanized water pipe as a cheater for 40 years on my Craftsman 18 inch breaker bar 'cause that is how it is done.
I don’t understand what you think is not safe about that. Just keep your knuckles clear, assume it can break at any time but that is how you should treat the bar withOUT a cheater.
Similar to Mustangman, I too have used a galvanized water pipe as a cheater bar for over 40 years. It works very well.
Can you please tell us how long your breaker bar is?
The reason I’m asking is that there are some pretty long 1/2" drive breaker bars out there
Personally, I’d go for a longer breaker bar first . . .
I use the iron pipes from woodworking clamps, various lengths, and my 1970 1/2 inch craftsman wrench. Figured if I broke the wrench I could get a replacement for free instead of grabbing my 1/2" solid bar. My wrenching days are over.
What do you mean ‘the anvil’s takes up too much space’? I don’t understand.
I’m sure there’s something out there that you can waste your money buying, but a piece of galvanized pipe works just fine. If you need it every day for some job, look into a 3/4" drive tool set.
I haven’t the experience of others but keep a piece of pipe to cheat with. I don’t have the strength to break a pipe or a wrench (have broken a few nuts and bolts; I suspect they were already broken.) so can’t imagine how a piece of pipe would be unsafe. My Harbor Freight ½-inch breaker bar has held up.
I just noticed the heading ( Braker Bar Extension ) .
Isn’t this what the removable handle on a floor jack is for?
But I think the OP is looking for some way to reduce the profile of the ratchet, which can be needed for accessing bolts on the front of a front wheel drive engine.
I’ve got a 24 inch long half inch drive Snap-on breaker bar that, with my petite 220 plus lbs on the end of it, can develope well over 400 foot-pounds of torque. It was my father’s before me and I’m fairly sure it’s older than I am. Because it’s a Snap-on tool it’s pricey, but it’s probably never going to break.
Look on e-bay, buy it once and never worry about it again.
You might be right. It would be helpful if the OP would respond. They might be looking for box end ratchet wrenches:
Yoshi, if you are looking for the smallest offset you can get - check this one out:
I live in the deepest part of the rust belt and have been using cheater pipes for almost 70 years and I have had bolts I could not get off with a 4 and a half foot piece of pipe.Usually engine cradle or some front suspension bolts. Did not round off the bolts or break the sockets but the bolts just would not move with my 230 to 270 lb. Never got hurt using one so I don’t know what the safety issue is. I have been hurt pluuing too hard on something shorter.
I think he wants a low profile tool.
The pro form tool does that.
He won’t say why he needs 100+ ft/lb capability.
Crank bolt? Take off fender liner.
Sometimes lifting motor for better access is needed.
A friend did that with a Craftsman breaker bar, broke the breaker bar, Sears replaced the breaker bar no questions asked.
The trouble with that,is that if you can still find a Sears store, your Craftsman breaker bar will now be replaced with Craftsman Chinese made junk.