I have replaced multiple times the brake lines calipers I have done the master cylinder and rear drums full system bleed several times and replaced the proportioning valve with a used one. I think it might be the proportioning valve but I’m unsure. A family member borrowed my truck for awhile and didn’t tell me the brake pads wore down and needed replaced and drove it an hour using the E-brake (stupidly) and I had to redo the entire brake system the front brakes kept locking up we replaced the proportioning valve and now it only does it on the passenger side I can’t find a good used one and I can’t get a new one for the truck I’m at a loss and unsure if it is the valve or not it will sometimes lock up and sometimes won’t the pedal will get hard and I will feel the transmission start down shifting when it starts feeling the resistance if I stop for a few minutes it will release and be fine the rest of the time it’s at random if someone has some answers anything would be appreciated
Rockauto.com still carries that valve.
Rock auto is out of stock. you can get a used one on Ebay. or a local auto salvage yard.
just a thought. A bad Vacuum Brake Booster Check Valve or Brake Booster will cause a hard pedal. do you hear any vacuum hissing under the hood?
Have you changed the brake hoses? they can collapse internally causing a hard pedal or the brake to lock up.
Does this suv have anti lock brakes?
Yes it does
Yes twice to make sure it wasn’t the problem and it bleeds perfectly fine but it only is happening on the front right and it’s random
It says out of stock has for several months
Remove the abs fuse and see ifthe lockup goes away.
I tried that I took out the bus fuse for the abs pump and the fuse for the abs and tried enabling one at a time and still locked up
I’d guess the most likely reason is a faulty, partially collapsing rubber brake hose somewhere. You might try replacing all the rubber brake hoses, fresh brake fluid throughout and a 4-wheel bleed, could well solve the problem. Even if it doesn’t, at least you’ll have new rubber brake hoses, parts which are common failure items as they age. If you decide the proportioning valve is the problem , try removing & cleaning it out first, spray brake cleaner through it, or compressed air, one of the holes may just be clogged with a little rust. Reinstall and bleed. Note that some ABS designs require a scan tool with ABS bleeding functions allowing you to turn certain valves on and off, to ever get all the air out. Not sure if that applies to Durango or not. @Nevada_545 is our local MOPAR older car expert, maybe he will chime in.
I’ve replaced all of the brake lines twice and pulled a full bleed front to back it’s really odd the pedal gets hard almost like it’s a booster problem except it only happens on the one wheel and it’s at random
Could be a caliper problem. Broken spring or piston is getting stuck in caliper bore. Have you tried replacing that wheel’s caliper? Or at least removing it and doing a bench isnpection to make sure the spring isn’t broken and the piston moves freely in the bore, isn’t getting stuck cock-eyed. Other than the ABS unit, brake systems are comprised of pretty simple gadgets, keep on testing theories in a scientific way, removing and inspecting parts, eventually the problem will be found. One unusual failure mode isn’t actually the brake parts themselves, but a wheel bearing is worn out and allowing too much movement for the brakes to accommodate. Worth taking some time to test for faulty wheel bearing, weird noises, too much play etc.
Yes the piston freely moves in and out I replaced it on warranty 2 times still same problem
Put it this way I’ve had the truck a long time if rebuilt the front and rear end re done brakes entirely front to back freshend up the motor and transmission and rebuilt the 4x4 system about a year ago I’ve never had an issue like this before it’s odd
If you have had a long time then you should know it is a SUV not a truck.
Is the brake system front and rear or front left to right rear criss cross?
No doubting your expertise w/your truck. You’ve replaced all the metal brake lines and rubber hoses, and that particular caliper two times, still locking up, so I agree, this is an odd problem you’ve been presented with. It’s sort of hard to believe it could be the MC or Booster given only one wheel locks up. Absent some problem with the ABS, which hopefully you have a way to rule out, it seems about the only thing left to consider is the proportioning valve or the wheel bearing. If wheel bearing seems ok, maybe remove the proportioning valve and clean it out on the bench.
Another idea, I wonder if you could do some experiments, isolate the brake system so either that wheel’s caliper is the only one that functions, or is the only one that doesn’t function. Might provide some clues. Clamp off rubber hoses, etc.
As you can probably tell, I’m having a hard time convincing myself the problem is the proportioning valve.
It has a separate chassis and body has the same body frame and running gear as a dodge Dakota so not a pickup truck just a truck and a SUV really is a cross over with a uni body frame
There’s one other thing it could be a little while ago when I first had to re do the brakes and I replaced that caliper cause it was hanging up. The bottom slide pin was loosely sitting in there the threads were gone so I had to Heli-Coil it and it’s been holding strong but I wonder if it could possibly be hanging up if the slide pin is slightly off. It’s only occasionally but I don’t know if I would get the same symptoms because everything else I’ve tried failed and finding a good used steering knuckle is pretty freaking hard for the Durango/Dakotas and buying a new factory style one seems impossible. But what’s your thoughts? You seem pretty knowledgeable do you think it’s possible?
When the right front brake is locked, will loosening the bleeder screw release hydraulic pressure and allow the brake rotor to rotate? If so, I suspect the restriction is in the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU).