+1
Sounds like a dump valve sticking or something not allowing the fluid to release to that wheel…
BTW This is a 4WAL and not just a RWAL right??
My 99 Dakota was a RWAL and those are worthless…
I lived on a big hill and when I was pulling my trailer, at the bottom of the road was a lot of loose road gravel and the front brakes would lock up and the rears wouldn’t do anything so I just slid out in the cross road… lol
Do you really think this person will know what you are talking about ? Even if they happen to know what RWAL ( Rear Wheel Anti Lock ) means they might not know if their vehicle is like that.
Yes, I would think that anyone that has rebuilt their front and rear diffs, transfer case, refreshed their engine and trans and rebuilt their brakes front to back a few times would know if they have sensors on the front wheels or not… And if not the OP is free to ask what it is…
Go to car-part.com and put in your info or VIN lookup and it will give you a lot of them…
I think you are on to something. If the pin is only slightly off-kilter, the caliper will be prone to sticking.
Regular bleeding only works with RWAL.
Explains why I’ve had limited success on my foal. Push down, let up, etc.
I’m a diyer, not a pro mechanic, & no experience w/Durango brake configurations. I have serviced two cars w/front disk brakes over 40 years, and my 50 year old truck w/drums all around. No ABS experience. The only vehicle I’ve experienced a brake lock-up problem is my drum-equipped truck. That seems to have been caused by the shoes not sliding properly on the backing plate, possibly in conjunction with a broken brake spring. .
hmmm, so what about your case? … well, if caliper doesn’t slide properly on the guides, seems like that could possibly create a lock-up. If I had that problem I’d remove both front wheels and compare by feel how one slides, compared to the other, see if forcing the suspect caliper one way or the other causes it to stick, etc. If nothing found using that method, I’d tend to discount that theory. I think @Nevada_545 's idea to release the brake fluid pressure above is a test definitely worth doing, could point to an ABS problem. Nevada claims to be a professional dealership mechanic, and seems to have a hobby keeping his own older MOPAR cars on the road, I have no reason to doubt.
As far as the proportioning valve, seems hard to believe a problem w/that would only affect one wheel. My guess, either something involved with the caliper ass’y is sticking, or the ABS sourced hydraulic pressure is forcing it to stick. It seems like one of the design requirements for an ABS system would be that there’s an easy way to disable it, and brakes still work albeit no ABS function, for testing purposes.
Took me a while to decipher that too.