I’m in the market for a used BMW 335d, which are hard to come by b/c they’re relatively new. This will be my first car, and I’m kinda confused by the buying process. I found a used one for about 5 grand less than the rest of the listed used ones, even though it’s sold by a dealer, has a clear carfax, has a cold weather package…etc. Any idea why there would be such discrepancy? Also, what can I do more than have it independently inspected by an authorized BMW mechanic. Any other tips??
Does the cheaper one have + 100k mi.? Many people bought them because they planned on driving a lot.
Is the cheaper one being sold as a certified pre-owned (CPO) or not? It could be that the others you looked at are CPO and this one is not CPO, if so ask why not.
Other than that would be condition issues, have you gone and actually looked at the cheaper car or is it far away from you? If it is far away local market conditions may affect the price but $5k (around approx. %15 in this case?) is a pretty large “discount”.
No, it’s only got 9,000 miles on it. it’s NOT certified. It was a “fleet vehicle” according to the carfax report. Does it really matter if it’s certified or not if the warranty is valid? warranty on it is valid till 50,000 miles or Jan 2014 whichever comes first. Any advice?
Most CPO programs cost the dealer $$. They are in effect selling you an extended warranty. You have found part of your answer for the $ difference. Was it a dealer loaner at that dealership?
Haven’t asked but will, thanks! So even if it was a loaner, and even if it’s not CPO is that enough of a reason not to buy? Anything else I can do aside from additional inspection? it seems like a waste of money to spend 5 grand or more on a CPO on a car that hasn’t even been driven for 10,000 miles. No?
I really can’t tell you what to be comfortable with from this point on. It really is a personal decision. What is the additional time period you get w/ BMW CPO (beyond the factory 50k mi. and x -is it 5? - years)? How much would it cost you to buy a 3rd party warranty to cover that same amt. if you feel you want that. My choice would be to self insure (keep emrg. $ in the bank) and hope I don’t need it but that is ME not you (and I do 99% of my own automotive work). Do realize that this car has a quite sophisticated twin sequential turbo set up, if things go really wrong it will be expensive to replace (ask at a BMW service desk). This is not to scare you, just that you should have info. going in to your decision.
I would pointedly ques. them why it is not being sold CPO. The fact that it was “fleet” does not always disqualify a car from CPO but I am not familiar specifically w/BMW’s CPO rules re this. I would independantly verify the CPO rules re this, especially if they assert that is the only reason it is being sold not CPO.
How long have you kept your previous cars? How long do you intend to keep this one?
Thank you for the advice! I really appreciate it and will follow up. I have never owned/leased a car before. This will be my first. I don’t need it to commute as I live in a city. I probably will take it out for errands once/twice a week and the occasional short distance road trip. I will probably own it for 5 years or so. What I love about it is the 450 pounds of torque that it packs. It’s an amazing driving machine!
In addition to the advice above, I would offer this: The only concern I would have with fleet, rental, dealer loaners and the like is the level of care used by previous drivers.
Most will tell you engine damage can accumulate over time, and the majority of it is done in the first few minutes of startup. How many rental, etc drivers get in the car, and treat it nicely? Not many. I know I rarely do.
Get it thoroughly inspected by a reputable mechanic. I wouldn’t say he has to be a BMW specialist, but he should know his stuff.
Not to belabor the point, but here’s what I’m looking at. See difference between option #1 and all the rest? Why such a discrepancy! I need a more “scientific,” if you will, way to figure out the difference. http://bit.ly/3bfpLl
Search results don’t transfer from computer to computer quite like that. We’d have to have the search page, and then the options you selected to get the same results. Most likely even the zip code you’re in (or where the dealer is, anyway).
Oh, sorry, just discovered that! Basically a used (not CPO) one with 9,300 miles costs 35 grand (and it’s a 2010 model), whereas a CPO one with 27,000 miles is listed for about 40 grand (2009 model). Almost same options, and carfax shows clear on all. I realize an inspection is needed since carfax is only as good as the reporting done, but still. I find it strange, then again, I’ve never bought a car before.
So my guess of about 15% difference was pretty close. Sounds like you will hit the time limit on the bal. of the factory warranty (is it 5 years from in sevice date?) before the 50k mi. limit. consider an extended BMW warranty to add a year or two if you feel more comfortable having it. You can usually do this up to 36k (maybe even 50K?) miles but the cost steps up with mi. on the clock (usually x$ more every 10k more mi.). Ask the dealer what the options are now and down the road. If it’s a decent size dealer they may have an “F&I” person. The finance and insurance person’s job is to upsell you all manner of financing and “coverages”, hopefully you can speak to one that is more knowledge than salesman in him. Good luck, don’t commit, make it clear that you need all the info. before you can even consider commiting, then go to a different BMW dealer and talk to another F&I person, any dealer can sell you the warranty extension, does not have to be the selling dealer, and the price is negotiable. Wish I was friendly with a dealer so I could find out the cost for you but you may be able to find the cost on a Bimmer forum, add $50-$100 (max.) for profit and paper pushing and that’s all you should pay for extended warranty. It will probably be a few thousand $'s so splits the difference between a CPO car and this one, money wise.
It’s a lot of car for a first car. I don’t know your age, financal situation or driving experience so I won’t assume anything but I will say that I hope you are not buying this car w/less than 50% ($20K) in the bank earmarked for the car. Please don’t let the oh so seductive 450 ft./lbs. get you in over your head finacially for a car that you don’t really need for everyday living.
I hate, hate, hate to say this because the 335d is a lovely car (I would own one if they imported a 5 door version), the torque is sooooo seductive (and decieving - watch that speed - 50/60mph to 90/100 mph happens so fast in that car - you don’t need the tickets) BUT do realize that this car is designed to be at it’s best use on the highways and byways covering 30k + mi./yr. Your intended use is not the best for a diesel. I really hate even more to mention it (please don’t shoot the messenger) but a hybrid might be a better choice as a city car. Did you know that electric motors deliver full torque from nearly 1 rpm? I know, probably fat chance I would convince you, I wouldn’t even convince myself. Have you driven the new Lexus CT 200h?
I remember my Beamers very well, and they truly shined on the Autobahns in Germany, where there was virtually no speed limit. Cruising along at 130+ is awesome, but not something very many Americans can ever do (at least not legally). I learned to drive over there, and lived there for a time since.
Now I own a Jetta and a Toyota. I still long for those really nice, fast cars…BUT…I can afford to keep these on the road. Not having had to pay very much for any maintenance on these 2 120K+ mile cars has been very pleasant, even if they aren’t all that fast or exotic. Having said that, I believe everyone should own, at least once, for a while, some sort of luxury car. When you decide it’s done it’s job and you move on, it’ll leave you with (hopefully) some nice memories, and you’ll end up with a sedate Malibu or something like the rest of us.
I would go to the dealer (or call or email) and ask the sales manager your question: “why is this one cheaper that that one if it has fewer miles?”
I am willing to bet there is a difference in options: whether engine, suspension, electronics, navigation system etc. that makes the difference in price.
You may not be comparing apples to apples, as they say.
Thank you all again for your wonderful advice. I test drove a couple of other BMW 3 series and didn’t like them as much, even though they had more horsepower and higher speeds. The torque curve is what makes the difference (to me at least) it seems.
I don’t really have any interest in a Lexus or a hybrid, I’m sorry! (and thankfully I can afford this car, I just don’t want to have to pay more for it than it’s worth). A friend recommended an extended factory warranty, so I’m looking into that. Any ideas? Another questions for you helpful, patient folks: if the car is listed for 35 grand, how much can I realistically expect to pay for it? how much do y’all think I can talk them down to? (I plan taking a male friend with me to the dealers as all my friends seem to recommend that.)
OK, so you’re a woman. I really do hate to say it, but yes, you probably need to take someone of the male persuasion with you. There are lots of honest, decent salesmen (and women) out there, but just in case you get one of the few that isn’t…
According to Edmunds.com a used 2010 335d sedan runs from $35,242 to $39,444 dealer retail (for MY zip code). That’s with no options, though. You should go into the deal armed with as many different pricing quotes as you can get and see how many different trade-in values you can find to see what they may have paid for it.
Decide on your top price, and start negotiating somewhere around 5K less than your top, or their asking. You could even go lower, depending on how much you figure they shelled out for it. If you can figure out that number, they’ll normally let it go for that +500. It’s in their best interest not to have vehicles sitting around on the lot. They have to pay fees for them, and periodically wash them, etc…all while they don’t have space for another new car.
This is how I bought my 2 new ones, though. I can’t guarantee it’ll work for you, but it’s normally some form of this that does.
If the dealer has trouble moving a car for some reason, they will drop the price. This could be the issue here. Diesel fuel used to be more expensive than premium, but now it’s just a little more than regular around here (MD).