2013 Mustang GT/V8. Today I replaced all 4 brake hoses. Well 3 of them actually…while doing the 4th and final one on the front passenger side the hard line (that goes to the master cylinder) snapped completely off when I put a wrench on the nut that attaches the hard line to the rubber brake hose. Strange how it’s always just ONE out of multiple of the same things that goes wrong when doing a repair and the rest all go smoothly.
Anyway, I was going to get it towed to a shop tomorrow but was wondering what is the best course of action in terms of telling them how to fix it
1.) request they use flared fittings and splice a new piece of hard hose from where it’s broken on one end and connect the other end to the rubber brake line
2.) replace the entire brake line from the master cylinder and request they not splice anything in.
From what I’ve read, either option is feasible. However the ford dealership doesn’t even carry OEM hard brake lines anymore so getting those will be difficult and probably will take a long time so I’d rather do option 1 if possible.
I think I phrased the question poorly. In this case I would like to know what people here think is the best course of action before I take it to a shop so I can ask the shop HOW they were going to fix it. And if it’s not the right way I will take the car somewhere else
I’ve seen people get their car back from a mechanic for fuel/brake line repair and compression fittings were used
So it’s better to know the right way and how the shop will fix it before they touch the car to save headache later on
A replacement brake line is the best choice imo. I’d guess there are several sources of pre-formed and adapter-attached aftermarket metal brake lines for a 2013 Mustang. Steel, or the newer nickel/copper alloy are both good material choices. @Mustangman here probably knows of some sources. A web surf over to rockauto and summit racing & ebay (online car-part stores) is a good idea too. Worse case, the section you need can be custom-shaped from a roll of raw brake line, with the adapters put on each end as part of the process. Better auto repair shops consider this just part of the job, do it all the time. Has to be done exactly right, using the correct materials and tools, so not a good job for a novice diy’er.
That line doesn’t go to the master cylinder, it goes to the ABS modulator. A new line, hand formed and flared is the best solution. 2nd best is stretching the hard line…there is always a little extra… and cutting off the booger and reflaring. 3rd best is a splice with flared fittings into a union.
The worst possible solution is a compression fitting on the hard line. Totally unacceptable!
Edit for George: I buy a 25 foot raw line, fittings, and double flare my own lines for something like this. The flaring tool can be rented but I do own one. They are not terribly expensive. It is a fiddly job but do-able by a DIYer
Yes, exactly. The line cannot be twisted. If this broke normally, a small pipe cutter can make a nice square cut. Deburr the inner and outer of the pipe, blow out chips, slide the fitting over and flare the end with a double or ISO bubble flare. I think Ford uses double flares. Bend the line a bit by hand…careful not to kink it…to get the fitting in the right spot and screw it in. There are metric and English fittings, be sure to use the right type. I think Ford uses metric but it has been a while. Check replacement hoses on Rockauto. At least one or 2 vendors will list the thread size.
Ok guys with the help of a more mechanically inclined friend than myself, I sucessfully fixed all the hard metal brake lines that broke and replaced all 4 rubber brake hoses.
Originally the front passenger side caliper seemed to be sticking due to a bad rubber brake hose. Now that side spins freely but NOW the front drivers side seems like it’s sticking. Front drivers side is hard to spin on jackstands and after driving I feel noticeably more heat radiating from the front driver rotor compared to the front passenger one.
I replaced all rotors, calipers and pads and all rubber brake hoses and did a complete brake flush after everything. Basically the entire break system. Why is the front drivers side more difficult to spin and way more hot than the front passenger side after driving???
Do the pads need to be broken in? Calipers were already compressed all the way since they were new and I replaced the hoses and fluid. I’m at a loss. Should I just stop worrying and drive? This is driving me insane
Suggest to compare the price of he aftermarket version vs what your shop would charge you for a custom version. There may not be much difference, and no worry about having to make any custom bends yourself. The biggest obstacle to this idea may be that your shop will refuse to only supply the part. They may insist that they install it too. Their liability insurance company may insist.
Could brand new pads that need to be bedded drag on the rotor? Would it be necessary for me to remove the caliper slide pin bolt and check for grease? Aren’t they supposed to be greased from the factory? That’s why I did not bother greasing them myself.
The caliper is likely a cheap rebuild? Make sure all of the slides are appropriately greased and sliding as they should.
IMO that is “best practice.” Most pad manufacturers will provide best procedures for bedding in. Unfortunately, they usually don’t come with the pads. You have to go look for them. But generally speaking , if you don’t find any then you need some reasonably un-crowded open road. Do a series (like 6-10) of “almost stops” from like 45-50mph down the 10mph. Each time release the brakes and drive for a while to let everything cool before the next time. I live on country backroads, so it’s easy for me. Maybe not so much for you.
So, alternatively, you can just drive and approximate the same thing as you can. The key is to not brake super hard or just sit on the brakes for the next 500 miles or so. You want them to heat up but not get super-hot, and cool down without making too much heat and then not just sit on a “hot spot” on the rotors at any point in time.
I just pulled, cleaned and regreased both sliding caliper bolts on the front drivers wheel but it’s still sticking.
I think I will just buy a brand new non reman front drivers side caliper and install it.
My final question is, when I bleed the brakes do I have to bleed them all or just the one front drivers side line? (That one is the closest one to the master cylinder by the way)
