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Basket case engine swap

Ok so the basics first. The car is a 1990 Honda Civic DX hatchback. The swap is a 1999 Acura Integra GS-R.
For about 3 months the car has been a no start. I would get 12 volts to the coil but they would not spark at the wires. I tested the wires for contiuity and they tested good. After trying multiple different harnesses and things the car seems to be in worse shape.
The current problems are that it was blowing the 10volt alternator fuse everytime I keyed it to the ON(II) position. I unplugged the alternator and now it doesnt blow the fuse. I have fuel now and the CEL comes on and goes out as it should but the battery light does not come on at all. Im not sure if that is because I have the alt. unplugged.
The main problem is that the car no longer cranks. Im back to the original harness that the car had cranked with before but now everytime I go to crank (turn he key to the START(III) position) the car the car shuts off. I checked the grounds and theyre all good. The fuses in both boxes are good as well. I dont know if its getting spark yet because it doesnt crank.

Thanks for any help,
Sean

Are you getting battery voltage at the coil when the engine is cranked over or did you do a static test on that with the key in the RUN position only?

Unplugging the alternator will cause the dashboard battery light to go out as the ground for that light is inside the alternator.

This one is hard to figure and made worse by your statement about trying multiple harnesses, which I assume to mean wiring harnesses and the fitment of a different engine.

I was getting voltage in both key positions, ON(II) and START(III). I cant test it now because I dont have a helper right now. Yes I had another harness that was supposedly made for the swap but it didnt do anything so I went back to the original one. The engine cranks with the trans ground unplugged. It cranks slowly like it has some resistance but a soon as I touch the ground wire to ground the car shuts off and stops cranking.

This is going to be really hard to troubleshoot remotely because we didn’t watch you do the swap. You really need to provide us with a step-by-step of what you did in order for us to even know where to begin.

I will say that your original engine was a DPFI setup, and you are swapping to an MPFI VTEC engine, so the original wiring harness is not going to work unless you add wires. I have no idea if the new wiring harness will work or not, because I don’t know if it was made right.

Also, if you did not swap ECU’s, you need to.

Yes I have 2 harnesses; the original with a MPFI adapter and a rywire tuck harness made for the chassis and motor. The ECU is also a programmed P28 running a basemap for the motor. I’ll type a more in depth chronology tonight when I get home.