Auto parts recyling yards where you remove the part from the wreck yourself


#1

Do you have to remove it and bring it in to find out the price, or do they tell you the price before you remove it?

The places I’ve gone before don’t allow you out into the yard and around the wrecks, instead you tell them what you need and the staff there goes out into the yard and removes the part. But there’s a new used parts recycler nearby where they have a bunch of wrecks placed on blocks and you remove the part yourself. Just curious how the pricing works. I wouldn’t want to spend an hour removing a part only to discover the asking price was too high. And do you have to pay just to go into the yard, like an admission fee? Or is entrance free and you just pay for whatever parts you remove?


#2

We have both kinds here…some I can walk around the yard…others - they actually disassemble the vehicles and sell you the parts. Model 2 is more expensive, but easier.


#3

Since these are independent businesses, why not call and find out?


#4

Most of these U-PULL yards have web sites that list the prices.

Here’s the one I use, http://www.upullrparts.com/

Tester


#5

Calling the business and asking their policies, now there is a novel idea.


#6

Another reason to call is to see if they have the model in stock. They may not tell you if they have the part though.


#7

I’ve never been to one that had an entrance fee. Getting the parts varies, from “remove it yourself” to ones that get the part for you to those that have the main parts (engines etc.) removed and stored.

One thing I’ve found is that you’ll want to talk to the yard operator ahead of time and tell him exactly what you’re seeking. Many yards now won’t sell engine components because it makes the engine less saleable, and for body parts many sell only assemblies or “clips”. Taking individual body parts makes the assemblies they belong to less saleable. Much of the yards’ customer base is comprised of body shops, and body shops generally want assemblies or “clips”. A “clip” is and entire segment of a body, like for example everything forward of the “A” pillars (windshield posts) that would get clipped from a salvage vehicle and welded on a vehicle under repair.


#8

I go to pick your part . . . the one with the octopus wearing the baseball cap

Last time I was there, it was $2 to get in

it’s sorted by import, domestic and truck/van/suv

They used to post prices online, but I see the new website no longer does that

Unfortunately, it’s only worth going there on 1/2 price weekends, which tend to be every major holiday

Their regular prices are too high, IMO . . . better off just buying a cheap chinese new part, if you just need to get something going again

They don’t care if you buy an entire engine, or just the intake manifold, for example

Not to offend anybody, but that junkyard has the most despicable customers . . . including me :wink:

People try to steal from each other all the time. If you put a wrench down, somebody will try to steal it while they look you straight in the eye :anguished:

The junkyard also is a liar. They say they drain all fluids, to save the environment. They only drain the fuel, and everything else they leave alone. I’ve gotten engine oil pans there. And I had to find something to catch the engine oil . . . such as a cloth bench seat from a junk car :naughty:

There are other junkyards which charge considerably more, but they’re 10 times better organized, and they are also a lot quieter :neutral:


#9

I used to hit the Pull A Part yard up in OK City quite a bit but not so much anymore due to pricing.
They get 30 bucks for a single, old style steel cylinder head but they also want 2 bucks each for every rocker arm on it. If a thermostat housing or temp sender is attached to the head they charge extra for that.

Why wrestle a head off for 46 bucks + tax, core charge, enviro fee, etc when I can just buy one already pulled from a regular yard for 40 bucks.

What’s appalling is the lengths to which people will go to fish a cheap mickey mouse part off of a heap. A dollar entrance fee, walk the yard in 100 degree heat, and rummage through 30 cars to find a 10 dollar part that can be gotten new at AutoZone for 20.

A few years ago someone dropped an auto trans out of a Lincoln Mark VIII (Not an easy task even in a shop…) and disassembled half the trans just to get a 5 dollar speedo drive gear; a gear which can be had for 8-10 bucks new at any trans shop. Trans parts thrown all over and ATF soaking everything in sight with a 4R70W ruined. Morons…

The only reason this place even lowered their prices and put everything online is because LKQ came to town and set up on the west side of OK City to provide some competition.


#10

How do you deal w/the pricing at your pick-your-part place @db4690? If you see a part you want on a wreck they have, say for example an interior door panel, will they tell you the price before you remove it?


#11

My experience here in LA is similar to @db4690
I have gone to the pull your part in Sunland a few times. There is an entrance fee, maybe $1, but on the newer car area the fee is higher. You have to pull the part yourself and then they give you the price. I never bought anything, rather learned how to get to the part & got my practice on the wrecked car before doing it on mine. The prices they were quoting me was higher than buying new online, and since I was in no rush, I just ordered parts on the net.


#12

It takes about 20 seconds to find the used parts price list for Pick-n-Pull in San Jose;

http://www.picknpull.com/part_pricing.aspx?LocationID=58&Language=English&NavItem=3&SearchCriteria=&#partpricing


#13

@GeorgeSanJose

Yes, if you go up to the cashier, they will tell you prices

It might save you the work to remove an overpriced part


#14

Like tester said, around here you pay like $2 to get in, get a wheelbarrow for your tools and off you go. Most stuff is pre priced but they check it out at the end and open your tool box to show you didn’t steal anything. Problem is the cars are older models and no guarantee the have what you want. Also it’s a lot of work sometimes getting the parts off with rusted bolts, working in the cold, and no electricity.


#15

@galant

that junkyard charges $2 to get in, plus another $2 to get into the “primo” section

The “primo” section is for the cars that are SUPPOSEDLY newer. I’ve seen cars from the 1980s there. One time I even saw a Nova there . . . and I’m not talking about the front wheel drive Chevy Nova from the early 1990s, either :wink:

I’ve asked about prices a few times, my jaw dropped, and I didn’t bother pulling the parts


#16
The junkyard also is a liar. They say they drain all fluids, to save the environment. They only drain the fuel, and everything else they leave alone. I've gotten engine oil pans there. And I had to find something to catch the engine oil

The way my P-a-P handles this is to include in the small print: “User agrees to handle all motor vehicle fluids IAW all applicable state and federal regulations.” Basically, “it’s your problem, not ours.” And, 99% of the time, nobody does squat. The junkyard obviously knows how this will play out, but now they can deny knowledge of any specific violation. “Plausible deniability 101.”


#17

My local P-ur-P charges $1 to enter but they have a big board with all the common type parts prices listed. If you bring them something not on the board, they price it very low. I’ve been getting electronic parts for the wife’s Saab super cheap because they don’t warranty them. Trim parts are almost a give-away. The yard is small and grinds through cars very quickly. They must turn the yard inventory completely every 6 weeks or less.


#18

@Mustangman
Is that yard in FL? I’ll be there in less than 2 weeks (Bradenton & St. Pete Beach).
CSA


#19

It IS in Florida, I wouldn’t recommend sightseeing there… :wink:

If you’d rather visit the Edison Museum in Ft Myers, I’d gladly meet you for coffee.


#20

In OK City and long before they went online with information the Pull A Part there had a sign up stating 1 dollar for admission and another huge sign on the wall with everything listed and the price on it.

When you walked in the door (and even still today) the first thing seen is the price list with all parts listed in alphabetical order.
Any small bits not listed are just considered misc at 2 bucks each.