I don’t like buying ultra-low mileage used vehicles, because the condition is often no better than a well-maintained one with higher miles, but the seller of the ultra-low mileage one often thinks it’s worth a lot more than it really is. For example, if I am looking at a particular used car which is worth about $3k with 120k to 130k miles, a seller of an 80k mile example might ask $6k or more, and I simply wouldn’t pay that. The low-mileage example costs twice as much as the higher-mileage example, but it’s unlikely to provide twice as much useful life compared to the other.
As another poster already alluded to, unless you can DIY, you’re looking at around $2k for the timing belt replacement, transmission fluid and filter change, etc. Most likely, the seller is charging too much, once you take the cost of this deferred maintenance into consideration. And a different Sienna which has 120k miles or 130k miles, but has already had this maintenance done, new struts, and so on, is actually a better deal.
Just an additional comment that low mileage alone doesn’t justify a premium and can actually be a negative if for example it wasn’t maintained / stored properly or passed through multiple owners.
So the usual cautions apply, mechanical inspection, title review and maintenance documentation.
I’ve been watching the listings for these cars daily for two months. The car in question is nearly the LOWEST price of any second generation Sienna I’ve seen…yet the mileage is less than half of that for ALL the other 2004-2006 Siennas I’ve seen. Yes, it definitely will need a timing belt immediately, but even then, the total cost will be within the range of other cars with more than twice the mileage.
So while you make a reasonable point, the actual situation I have doesn’t match the scenario you described.
I posted the question mainly to get input on what (if any) mechanical problems might come specifically from such light usage over a 20 year span. From the replies so far, it sounds like there isn’t really much to worry about…pending a competent inspection.
Location is also a big factor: the car in question is about 5 miles away, in a calm, peaceful town in the California foothills. Everything else I’ve found online is minimum 70 miles away (Sacramento), and most cars are in the SF Bay Area and San Jose, 3-4 hours one-way. I have ruled out anything beyond 120 miles based on the arduous logistics to get shuttled to pick up a car, no matter what the cost, in the dense craziness of Bay Area congestion. In contrast, if everything looks good with the local Sienna and I have closed the deal, I could actually ride my bike to the seller’s home, stick it in the car, and drive home…no need even for someone to drop me off there. Sweet!
Again, I’ve found exactly ZERO cars with less than twice the mileage of the local car I’m interested in.
And I’d rather pay for an extra timing belt job than a new transmission. A Bay Area car with 190k will be needing a new transmission long before the car with 80k and mainly driven in the relaxed foothills region where I live.
So as someone mentioned above, it sounds like this car could be a unicorn.
You could price a similar Sienna using an online pricing tool. Assume the condition without the work you think it needs, then subtract the cost of bringing it up to the original condition assumed. You could make that your starting point for a negotiation. You already know it needs a new timing belt and your prepurchase inspection will show other things it needs. I’d guess new bushings all around at least. Share your estimated worth and how you arrived at it with the sellers and maybe leave a copy with them. If they don’t sell it soon they might be willing to accept your offer.
Well like the 60s song said, sometimes you’ve got to decide, say yes to one and leave the other behind. I’ve never spent more than a week on a used car. I don’t understand why you can wait two months and still have it available and not sold to someone else.
I remember taking the day off and driving about a 100 mile circle looking at all the used toros. Ended up a week later with a private party riv. More miles but a guy that just needed to downsize. When I went to write the check, he even knocked a little off the price. Never been sorry. 70 miles is nothing. Pick a day, go look at it, then look at the local one and as Martin Luther said, sin boldly and decide which one before sun down.
Well good for you if you’ve wrapped it up. Like I said though on any used car I’ve bought, regardless I figure new tires, brakes, hoses, belts, coolant change etc. then struts, tie rod ends, and so on wouldn’t be far down on my list. With the timing belt you’ll also get th3 water pump and coolant change.
I was hesitant to respond as my experience is related to cars driven short trips in winter and then parked in garages. The slush melts and the salt eats them up. Cars driven more regularly and for longer distances tend to get washed off even if just from the melting snow on the roads eventually getting rid of the salt. I saw three cars my older Dad had rot away prematurely due to that scenario. The bodies and everything else looked pristine but the underside was a horror show of rotted out metal- frames, hydraulic lines, suspension components etc. Where this scenario doesn’t exist, I would be less hestitant to consider super low mileage used cars…
Unfortunately, you reminded me of my experience living in Detroit and Flint Michigan as a young college student. Fortunately, that’s VERY distant past. Also fortunate that I was totally unable to understand calculus, otherwise I might still live there today (flunked out with flying colors).
I hated that relentless, miserable, slush. The big challenge was - when you had to park on the street - there was endless slush in the low spot along the curb reaching 2 or 3 feet out from the curb. That was compounded by gooey snow on the sidewalk. Once parked, it was nearly impossible to get from the street side of the car to the sidewalk.
I don’t miss that for one nanosecond.
By choice, I live in California at an elevation that gets lots of rain but only occasional snow. I don’t know of any areas in California where salt is used, but it’s not used where I live. I’ve been here almost 40 years now.
So none of the cars I’m interested in are affected by this snow + salt induced cancer on cars.
Been putting 2500 miles a year on a 2017 Rav4, oil change once a year to keep warranty good till 2027. One problem dipstick rusted in place, fixed under warranty. Last oil change 2500 noted oil 1/2 quart low. Not worried. 2020 it became my car instead of wifey, I do try and take it on 100 mile road trips occasionally. 7 year Toyota warranty purchased on lease buyout in 2020, thought $1400 a good gamble.
fyi, Google says: “Salt is used in both granular and brine form on Interstate 80 , U.S. Highway 50 as well as State Highways 89, 267, 49 and 29 in the Sierra. Amounts vary due to conditions.”
When I lived in Colorado I normally wore hefty waterproof hiking boots as my daily footwear in the winter for this same reason.