Anyone aware of a good quality, accurate tire pressure gauge which is reasonably priced?

Would I have such luck today having one made as you did years ago?

I try to keep my tires at 100% but most gas stations won’t pump them up that far.
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This one I believe was custom but put together from available parts at the time. Based on your experience and skills, I’d be willing to bet you could scrounge up the parts to make one. Although, the rubber surround might be difficult to find for a test quality gauge. Perhaps if they are the same diameter, one could be transferred from a lesser quality but commercially available gauge?

A modern digital gauge might be more readily available. I have a couple of those but still prefer the old analog gauge…

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:man_facepalming:

Why…

I hope this is just a joke.

We have had people post about going by the tire sidewall maximum pressure, inflating their tires to that value.

I am sure It_s-Me was joking.

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Purebred:

I’ve heard of so-called ‘hyper-milers’ doing so, trying to extract every last inch of mpg, lol!

But seriously, I think a halo graphic distribution best represents the tire inflation situation in Sam’s Land:

A) +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++: Inflated to sidewall max(unintended or willful ignorance)

B) ++++++++++++++++: Highly overinflated

C) +++++: Inflated at/or close to the door frame placard value(dorks like me!)

D) ++++++++++: Slightly underinflated (neglect or by preference)

E) +++++++++++++++++: Severely underinflated (neglect, undiagnosed leak)

My goal, through impart of knowledge here and elsewhere, is to reduce the amount of A, B, D, and E drivers, and increase the level of C!

I have a couple 60 psi Accu-Gauge dial gauges, a Radio Shack digital gauge that was a gift, and a pencil gauge I keep in the glove compartment for just in case.

One of the dial gauges never goes out of the house and comes off the shelf only for doing comparisons.
It agrees within +/- 1 psi at 35 psi with various new, high quality gauges I encounter at work, or bought by friends etc.
It’s my master gauge.
The Rad Shack digital and the display in my car also agree with it to +/- 1 psi.

The second dial gauge goes out for checking the car and bicycle tires.
In spite of the protective rubber cover it currently reads 2-3 psi high after being bumped around over the years, so I compensate.

The pencil gauge at last check reads 2 psi low, so I made a little stick-on label (with a Brother P-touch) that says “add 2” as a reminder.

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Whenever I bother to remove the drain plug from my compressor, nothing comes out. I don’t use it often enough for it to accumulate any water in the compressor-tank I guess. I’m presuming the source of the water that gets into those tanks is water-vapor in the intake air, and later, when the tank air pressure rapidly lowers (like when filling up a tire, using air-tool, etc), the water-vapor freezes and it sort of snows inside the tank, later becoming liquid water. Does that sound correct?

I dunno, I don’t get much out either. I would think it is when the warm air cools and condenses the water out of the air. I have all copper lines. The pros say to use pipe or the new plastic to reduce temperature changes but I have never had a problem. Probably due to not using it much.

Yeh, after all this I drained my compressor. I think it is around six gallons, twin hotdog type, drains for both upper and lower tanks. I have left it at 110PSI for three months since last drained. This time, no water came out.

I think you are close. I think it kind of “rains” rather than “snows”, but I’ll bet the bottom of the tank is where this happens, so not really “rain” as much as “condense”.

I usually get a pint or so when I empty the tank.

The water condensation in an air compressor tank is the result of compressing the air, which holds less water at high pressure than at low. 1 Bar = 14.5 psi, so going from atmospheric pressure (0 bar gauge) to 116 psig (8 bar gauge) reduces the water in saturated air by about 90 % at most temperatures.
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