I belong to a car club in The Villages, FL. Several members got into a argument regarding the use of an “anti-sieze” compound. It was focused on its use with lug nuts. I joined the “pro” side. I argued that the product is an “anti-corrosive coating”. Its purpose is to prevent threads for bonding to each other. The “con” side argues that it is a lubricant and should never be used on lug nuts or any other fastener that may come loose. It may also cause the threads to stretch. Please let me know your thoughts.
I’m interested in the responses too. However, as far as lugnuts, if you have your tires rotated on schedule, corrosion should not be a problem.
We’ve had a contentious discussion about that. Each side is convinced of their stance.
I am pro anti seize, coming from a rust belt state. On the threads, sparingly, reduce the torque spec by 10% and use it on the wheel pilot as well. Done this for decades with no issues and no frozen, stretched or broken lug studs.
Others will disagree.
I had a 98 Lumina sedan and my daughter had a 97 Skylark. I believed that they had galled threads as standard equipment. I had spare lugs/nuts in both cars. I could count on breaking at least one lug when removing all 4 tires. I started using a tiny amount of anti seize and the galling stopped. I do not have that problem on my Toyotas or Dodge vehicles so I do not use it on them.
I use the copper paste anti seize by permatex. Never had issues on lug nuts as long as you use a tiny amount because it attracts dirt.
It certainly does, especially if you overdo it on lug bolts . . . think some european cars
You need to realize that the people here are just a bunch of folks with varying levels of expertise. Some say yes some say no, same as your group.
As mentioned above, there have been other discussions here on this topic. Back in a thread from 2014- 2016, I posted a note that presented GM’s take on it that I’ll repeat here.
GM is against the use of lubricants on wheel studs. To quote from a GM service manual:
“Never use lubricants or penetrating fluids on wheel stud, nuts, or mounting surfaces, as this can raise the actual torque on the nut without a corresponding torque reading on the torque wrench. Wheel nuts, studs, and mounting surfaces must be clean and dry. Failure to follow these instructions could result in wheel, nut, and/or stud damage.”
and
“Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener.”
One place where lubrication is specified is on vehicles with hub-piloted wheels where the wheel nuts are of the two-piece flange type. A small amount of oil should be used between the nut and flange, but not on the threads.
I’ll note that some people don’t consider anti-seize compounds to be lubricants (though some are labeled as such. They would be corrosion inhibitors in any case). That’s probably a whole other can of worms.
My thought?
If someone brings their vehicle to my shop where I have to remove the wheels to service it, and I find any kind of lubricant on the lug nuts/studs?
I tell them to bring the vehicle back to the moron that put that stuff on there.
Because I’m not touching it.
Tester
I think this is generally a solution searching for a problem. If you live in a place with a very harsh climate and they use lots of chemicals on the frozen highways you might have a problem, but you live in Florida. This is a conversation among a bunch of guys with a lot of free time.
It hasn’t been an issue with me for years. Every vehicle I’ve owned since the 80’s all have the cap type lug-nut, so there really isn’t an issue of them rusting in place like they use to.
Yes we have had this talk before.
I am a Die Hard Thread Greasing Anti Seize usin Sum B…
I use it on all lugs… it keeps the nut and bolt relationship happy … and since the tension or torque of the fastener is dictated and controlled by the taper fit of the lug nut and wheel… there should be no confusion or befuddlement to think the bolt will lose the nut due to grease making come loose…
The tightness is ensured in the taper… thats why its there… also ensures center as well but i digress