Am I potentially liable? (1994 Grand Cherokee)

It’s still there . . .

“If I were to sell this car privately, could I be liable if someone . . .”

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Ok, I see that wording now. Somehow OP managed to type the post into an computerized slider gadget which caused me to miss the last line. I think the way that slider-box thing happens, the post is composed with another computer application, then cut and pasted into the “new topic” box, rather than just typing it into the new topic box word by word.

As far as the liability issue, anybody can sue another person for any or even no reason, whether there’s any merit to the claim or not. That’s just the way it is. To minimize the chance of this happening to a car seller the best advice I can think of is three words: disclose, disclose, disclose. In other words make sure to tell the purchaser everything , and I mean everything, that you know about this car’s problems, do this in writing, and insist they sign a document before transferring title indicating they’ve been informed. Include in the wording that you are not a professional mechanic and therefore are not qualified to assess the vehicle’s functionality for the purpose the purchaser intends to use it, and recommend the purchaser obtain a pre-purchase inspection from a professional mechanic.

Which is why it’s so much easier to donate such an old and near worthless vehicle to your local npr-affiliated radio station

you certainly won’t make a profit

But you’ll rest easier, knowing that it’s over and done with, and the radio station isn’t going to sue . . .

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Thanks a lot! I have not had the engine coolant temp sensor replaced & should do the idle air control again.

Your throttle position switch may have two parts to it. One is the variable resistor still in use today, the other is an IPS Idle Position Switch. They used to be separate back in the 90’s. In newer vehicles the TPS tells the computer when your foot is off the gas but back then, the IPS told the computer when you were off the gas or WOT, wide open throttle.

You need a mechanic who has access to the factory repair manual or All-Data covering this vehicle and have them check to see if it has the IPS and if it is making contact when your foot is off the gas.

Thanks so much Keith! Sounds like excellent info!

The Powertrain Control Module uses the throttle position sensor to determine closed throttle, there is no need for a closed throttle switch.

When the ignition is switched on the PCM uses the TPS value seen as the closed throttle value, starting the engine with your foot on the accelerator can confuse the PCM but only temorarily, the PCM will update the closed throttle value fairly quickly.

If replacing the idle air control motor does not cure the problem there may be a break in the wiring going to the IAC. Test the resistance in the wiring between the PCM and IAC, consider replacing the IAC pigtail connector.

Be aware that weak battery cranking voltage will cause the IAC to loose calibration so be sure the battery is in good condition.

Private sales of motor vehicles are always As is where is. There is no legal avenue for claim or suit unless it’s related to something that was written down and signed (eg a guarantee in a receipt or sales agreement) or misleading info in the advertisement or auction (eg rebuilt engine turns out not). Proving wrongdoing or intentional misrepresentation is a problem in itself and then even the remedies or recoveries of those things and costs can depend on the State.

Back in the 90’s, there were a lot of vehicles still using a separate IPS. My 97 Nissan Pick Up had an IPS/WOT in addition to the TPS. I don’t remember if my 97 Honda Accord had a separate IPS or not.

@Greg52, whether your vehicle has a separate IPS or just a TPS, one problem with these vehicles (two actually) is that there is an throttle stop screw that looks exactly like an idle adjustment screw. It will affect idle if messed with but that is not its purpose. It is there to keep the throttle plates (aka butterflies) from damaging the bore of the throttle body. Some ill informed mechanics have “adjusted” these on vehicles in the past. When that happens, the TPS or IPS may not detect foot off the pedal anymore and then the PCM won’t attempt to control the idle.

The second is if your vehicle doesn’t have an IPS and relies on the TPS only, the end of the variable resistor could be dirty or worn out to the point that it isn’t making contact any more. If your vehicle were newer and had OBDII, that would get detected but it may not be detected in OBDI which you have. That condition will have to be checked with an ohm meter.

I wasn’t going to mention this earlier, but if your mechanic doesn’t know this stuff, you might need to find a new mechanic. Many otherwise very good mechanics ahve a weak background in the electrical parts.