Maybe but when I took the old transmission oil it was super black and had metal flakes in it and the input shaft had a lot of play;Unless the clutch hydraulic caused that from long term use
The uneven fingers are common after years of use. Most people replace the pressure plate these days because they often don’t apply the same amount of pressure to the clutch as they did when new, so the new clutch plate wears out sooner.
I doubt the clutch was the problem with the transmission grinding, more likely worn syncros, hence the dark oil and metal flakes.
While torquing(24 ft-lb)one of the pressures plate bolts one snap do you think I’m fine or should I redo it(my luck is very ass)
Absolutely need to remove that bolt and replace preferably all of them with new. Without even pressure that disc/plate assembly will not last.
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Alright thanks !do you a retail store that sells those bolts because the kit didn’t come with new ones?
When installing a pressure plate, tighten all the bolts a little bit at the same time, do not try to crank one bolt down and expect it to hold all that pressure from the pressure plate, Turn each bolt maybe one-turn at a time, bring all of them down together.
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Ah ok I’ll try that
Here’s the torque sequence for tightening the pressure plate bolts.
And, you’re going to have to get that broken bolt out so it can be replaced,
Tester
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One more point to make, you will need to keep the flywheel from turning when you are torqueing the bolts. Whether you put a vice grip on the flywheel so it jams up against the bellhousing or a friend with a pry bar, you need to keep the flywheel stationary. YouTube Videos galore on how to do it when you are alone…
And once again, do not try to crank the bolts down one at a time. Hand tighten them to get them all started then tighten them all up a little bit at a time, half-turn or one-turn of the socket wrench, but do not put all the stain on one bolt or you will be replacing another busted bolt.
And a final bit of advice, when you torque the bolts down do it part way on each bolt. I do not know what the torque for the bolts is but let’s say it’s 85 foot pounds, torque each bolt in the order that Tester’s graphic shows but to 20 ft lbs, then each to 40 ft lbs, then to 60 ft lbs, and finally to 85 ft lbs…
Finally, I only used 85 ft lbs as an example, you need to torque your bolts to the manufacturer’s specifications. And do not forget to use the clutch alignment tool when installing the pressure plate.
Good Luck
How would that be possible if the transmission isn’t installed?
Testrt
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Also I check the service manual for the car it says to torque it to 14ft-lb is that right ? Because I saw a YouTube video saying 24ft-lb
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Good point, my brain must have up the Tail Pipe too long…
Are you talking about the bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel? No expeirence w/your car or clutch, but your diagram above implies 14 ft-lb is correct. What model year is your Eclipse? Engine?
One common mistake clutch-newbie diy’ers seem to make is to install the clutch disc the wrong way around. To me – who’s never done that job – it seems like it would be a nearly impossible mistake to make. With the wrong orientation those springs are rubbing up against the flywheel, nothing good comes from that. Usually the problem is obvious upon removing the clutch disc (b/c clutch doesn’t work properly), the springs are rubbed flat w/ corresponding marks on flywheel.
Like I say, not a clutch expert, Corolla has 200 k miles on original clutch, but were I going to tackle that job on my Corolla I’d purchase a clutch kit containing new clutch disc, new pressure plate, new release bearing, and new pilot bearing. Kit usually comes with a dowel to make alignment easier, but that’s just for the original install. Alignment is automatic with first use, as long as parts fit well enough to reinstall transmission. . If slave cylinder is inside bell-housing, I’d probably replace that too. To minimize having to repeat the job in the future, I’d likely buy the kit from a Toyota Dealership if OEM kit still in stock.
As far as broken off bolts, you apparently figured out how to remove the broken stud. How did you do it? If you look at the head on new bolts there is often a number stamped on the top surface. From 4.6 to 12.9. Higher numbers are stronger bolts. If broken off bolt head has a number, buy a bolt with same number. I’d guess most metric clutch bolts are rated 8.8.
Note that the service manual may specify the proper type of thread locking compound for certain bolts.
BTW, good for you for doing it yourself. As long as done safely, good way to learn, and provides some entertainment … lol …
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We know what happens when you go to 24ft-lb.
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It is impossible with most modern vehicles, the flywheel’s hub is so shallow that the disc can’t be installed the wrong way, the friction surface of the disc won’t touch the flywheel if it is upside down.
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lol … Out of curiosity I looked at the clutch diagram/specs/install procedure for my truck’s clutch. Aftermarket manual, but diagrams look to be copies from the Ford service manual. The technical aspect of the info presented for the diy’er to do this job, well, it wasn’t pretty.
- The ass’y diagram isn’t clear at all which way friction disc goes. And the text offers no guidance either.
- The text says to tighten the pressure plate to flywheel bolts 25-30 ft lb, but the ass’y diagram says the spec is 15-20 ft lb.
So I can see how a first time diy’er could get confused. The folks who produce these manuals would serve the diy’er community better by hiring a few diy’ers to do each job as written, the diy’er acting as sort of editors to ferret out mistakes and ambiguities before publication. I had a repair manual for my VW Rabbit titled something like “How to keep your VW Rabbit Alive, a repair manual for the compleat idiot”. The publisher of that repair manual apparently hired pro mechanics follow each procedure step by step before publication. Unlike for the truck, there were very few mistakes in that publication.
Still, I don’t expect OP broke off the bolt head by only applying 24 ft-lb. Must have been considerably more torque than that.
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I think you mean the transmission main shaft