Am I being Taken? Brakes & Rotors Quote

Maintenance/Repairs
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@Annettemary2112

Like so many automotive items, brake pad material selection is a topic of debate. In fact, it has been debated on this forum at least once.

Some of us use ceramic pads all the time (as I do) and have excellent results (great braking performance, low noise, low/no dust, long life of both pads & rotors), others not so much.

Here is a link to a discussion we had and you’ll see opinions on both sides.

I’d still go with the ceramics to be on the safe side. I’ve had good results with Wagner Thermo Quiet Ceramic pads. Don’t just take my word for it. As you can see @asemaster indicates that those are the pads (ceramic) specified for your vehicle. I would trust his judgment.

Oh, and that ASE in asemaster?
ASE = Automotive Service Excellence, a leading organization of mechanic training and testing that leads to certification as an ASE technician, widely esteemed and recognized in the car repair industry.

Basically, a master is certified in all areas of expertise, Engine Repair, Automatic Transmission, Manual Drive Train & Axles, Suspension & Steering, Brakes, Electrical Systems, Heating & Air Conditioning, and Engine Performance.

Metal to metal means the pad material was worn through or missing from the metal backing plate that It was attached to and the metal plate was in direct contact with the metal brake rotor. It was grinding and metal flakes were being expelled, settling everywhere and rusting.

Try and find a good wheel cleaner liquid to remove it. I have used DUB (developed by Meguiars) to clean brake dust and brake rust from rims. Follow the directions on the bottle.
CSA

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I profoundly disagree

As you’ve mentioned, we’ve discussed this topic MANY times

And Wagner thermoquiets are by far THE noisiest brake pads I’ve ever installed. I’ve never had anything but noise problems with them. For me, the name “thermoquiet” is a cruel joke. I’ve had problems with other aftermarket ceramic pads, for that matter, but thermoquiets are the worst, as far as I’m concerned. They’ll stop the vehicle and won’t mess up the rotors, but you had better be extremely hard of hearing, or crank that radio way up

In fact, if you’d take the time to reread those old discussions, you’d realize that @asemaster no longer recommends those pads, hasn’t for some time. And for the same reasons . . . consistent noise problems

So, that makes at least 2 professionals on this website alone that I can think of . . . me and asemaster . . . who do NOT recommend wagner thermoquiet ceramic brake pads

However, as you said, you have personally had good results

Everybody has to make their own decisons

You recommend that OP use wagner thermoquiet

I recommend OP does NOT use wagner thermoquiet

Since I’m a fleet mechanic, I see the same vehicles several times each year, so if there were to be brake complaints, including noise, I would know about it, unlike some other guys who might never see the same vehicle or the same customer ever again, and just assumes everything was fine, and perhaps it wasn’t . . . ?

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@db4690
I looked in my file. I’ve got Wagner Thermos Quiets on my Bonneville and no brake noise at all. However, it is a very quiet car to begin with…

I have Wearever Platinum Premium Ceramics on a couple of our Impalas and again no brake noise. But, again, two quiet cars to begin with.

Could it be the particular vehicles? Could it be the rotors? I don’t know, but I’ve had good results with both of those pad sets.

When I need to put brakes on the Grand Prix and Caravan, I’ll try and stay away from the Thermo Quiets, just in case. Thanks db.
CSA

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The mechanic told me since my rotor is rusted and I have no brake pads
left, instead of brake pad dust, I’m throwing what’s coming off-which is
rust-not dust. @Cavell-you can get 13 year old rims anywhere! Junk yards, eBay…but
who says I need to get the same rims? Because I didn’t plan to. Hey, my car
may be 13 years old, but it’s cool as hell and I love it. Maybe I can make
it til Collector Plates.

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Thanks for all the info… the collected opinions I got were that most of the rust will come off but not all…so I think it’s time for a change. I’d like to get all new.

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I think functional brakes are important to everyone…that wasn’t my question. I’m not a daily commuter…but I absolutely agree. I’ll be going with ceramics…I think?

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The $60 rate is the “sale” rate. I live in a very small town. I don’t know if you have ever heard of Farm & Fleet or Fleet Farm, but they are busy stores in other states and towns. It’s the Home Depot in my town, unless you want to travel 45 minutes one way or an hour the other to find a larger store- both brutal in the winter. I didn’t ask their normal rate.

I asked him about just fixing what is rubbing numerous times and he kept talking over me or determined to completely finish his sentences…so I never got an answer to that. I like your lamp analogy…it makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the info.

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Okay…I would never intentionally try to endanger fellow motorists…but getting a great deal on labor and parts and “cheaping out” are two different things.

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[quote=“Annettemary2112, post:24, topic:102184, full:true”]
@Cavell-you can get 13 year old rims anywhere! Junk yards, eBay…but
who says I need to get the same rims? Because I didn’t plan to. Hey, my car
may be 13 years old, but it’s cool as hell and I love it. Maybe I can make
it til Collector Plates.
[/quote]You will find a very limited number of wheels available used with the proper bolt pattern, offset, and diameter. The Pacifica was kind of an oddball in that regard. I know that some Jeep models have the same bolt pattern, but I don’t know about the offset. I scored a set from eBay a number of years ago.

I really liked my Pacifica, but I ditched it when electrical gremlins became too much of a hassle.

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Hi @NYBo, thanks for that info. Yeah, I think that’s why I’m going to check out new rims. But I’ll check eBay first. I’ve heard all the horror stories about the electrical issue with Pacifica’s. I have been lucky in that I’ve only had to replace the TCM and was about to sell it when Chrysler saw my tweets about my engine about to fall through.I found myself paying only $1100 for a brand new subframe. Chrysler picked up the rest of the cost, all done at the dealership. I’m a loyal Chrysler fan. I was previously married and in addition to my first Chrysler-an Intrepid imported from Canada, I’ve owned an Aspen, 3 different types of Jeeps, a Sebring and my Pacifica. It’s the most comfortable car I’ve owned. In fact, I just used it like a camper in December…a full mattress fits in the back, I watched movies from the DVD and my dog loved it! Mine’s the leather interior with all the extras. I’m just now experiencing a few small spots of surface rust on the body where it’s bubbling from the rust underneath, which isn’t too bad since I went from garage to outside parking for the last 3 years. I’ve taken it on many vacations including a three month road trip without having any breakdowns. I’m driving it clear across the country for the 2nd time in 3 months. I’m hoping for another 2 years, then will say good-bye to her with regret. Wisconsin winters can be brutal but I have never felt so comfortable behind the wheel and have never spun out…something I can’t say that didn’t happen to me my Jeeps. I may not drive it daily, but when I drive it for longer periods, no matter the weather, I can’t complain.

** A quick look on eBay right now shows over 50 for sale and that’s just by the 3rd page. I think I’ll be fine.

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I’ve had noise problems with EVERY vehicle I’ve ever installed thermoquiet on. Lot of different vehicle brands

That is why I do not recommend them

No matter if I replace/machine the rotors, check for runout, replace all the needed hardware, lube what’s supposed to be lubed, torque everything to spec

Doesn’t matter . . . garbage IMO

Opinions will vary

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32

Now that you’ve mentioned it, I would pay a trusted mechanic to perform a thorough evaluation of the Pacifica. And tell him to pay particular attention to rust related problems. That rust you see may be just the tip of the iceberg :fearful:

And good luck with those ceramic brake pads, whatever brand you choose to go with. Hope it works out for you :neutral_face:

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Ceramic pads were OE on this vehicle.

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That’s good information

thanks

But it doesn’t change the fact I’ve had terrible luck with aftermarket ceramic pads, especially with thermoquiet

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@db490 It had a thorough check at the dealership that installed the subframe. The '04 Pacifica is known for surface rust on the body but especially for the subframes/engine mounts that rust out at accelerated rates. There are class action suits but Chrysler did me a good one-my portion was only $1100 on the repair for a $4000 part alone. I’m all set. Those spots were just a dab when I purchased it. With road salt and the harsh winters, it really isn’t surprising, especially when it’s been a well known issue. I got one of the “good” 2004’s. Still not sure about the ceramics…I am going to go with whatever is in there because I have had no noise what so ever. Thanks for the reply!

The rust underneath-I meant the rust that lies underneath the small spots on the body that just started to bubble, in case you thought I meant something else. One well known place is around the rear hatch. I have one there and one above a wheel well.

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There’s always the dealer parts department route.

To the OP: Have to rocker panels checked for rust. In addition to the engine cradle rusting through, mine started to rust through the rockers, which are structural. That was another part of the reason I ditched mine.

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It seems his patience had worn thin, how many times did he explain that your brakes have worn down “metal-to-metal”? He probably felt that you were wasting his time, getting an assessment of the problem then stepping outside to shop around for the parts.

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@NTBo They would miss the rocker panels after doing the entire inspection that revealed I needed the new subframe? And they would miss that as well when the old subframe was removed with the new one installed?

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Hopefully not, but there are plastic covers over the rockers, so the rust can be extensive underneath and not be readily apparent. This is especially true on the Limited models (guess which I had).

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@Nevada_545. He explained everything that I needed to be done once. If anybody was running out of patience, it was me. I felt he was going overboard…I wanted to know what the estimate was, but HE kept talking. Then it was all about him closing the deal…all on his end and still doing all the talking, while I said nothing. I spent more time than I should have at the tire desk just to sign the pre-estimate while they saw me on closed circuit and saw no one was there. I spent another 45 minutes waiting for the estimate to be done, with only one other car in the bay and the other mechanic eating a sandwich.
I thank you not to assume I’m some gabby lady that “wears thin” the mechanics who gives me an estimate. Now you’re just being down right rude. You stated your opinion, placing yourself in his shoes, assuming his thoughts and feelings toward me and assuming my actions- like I MUST have asked him at LEAST a dozen times about the brakes, right? Wow. You’ve got the whole thing backwards! I clearly said he was the one doing all the talking, not me. Yes, there are guys who won’t stop talking…I’ve had the pleasure of knowing a few.