I plan to replace the aluminum oil pan (mechanic has stripped the drain hole thread) with a STEEL one. (Better thread life and easier to repair). My question is: Will the reduced oil cooling (steel vs. aluminum) be significant? Thanks.
Year, make, model???
Stripped threads can be repaired by re-threading to the next oversize. No need to replace the pan for that…
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Sorry. . . 2001 New Beetle 2.0l gas w/Auto. I’m concerned about and aluminum pan and a steel plug. I only want to fix this once. Thanks for the comment
why is this being done, mechanics recommendation? your preference? or dealership recommendation?
its actually easier to rethread the aluminum than the steel.
the beefy built up area around the oil plug hole is large enough to re tap and re thread for the next size up plug.
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The STEEL is my preference. The dealer sells only OEM aluminum oil pans and steel plugs. It is my preference to replace with STEEL. My issue here is OIL COOLING. VW didn’t use aluminum to save weight (or cost). A major source of oil cooling is the oil pan surface area (which is usually painted black) and the material thermal conductivity. Aluminum is better for cooling, hence my question. An oversize plug was tried with no long-term success (and the pan is not as thick or as wide as I would like). Thanks for all the good dialoge. BTW, Recycled Jacks in Michigan sells a replacement steel pan.
Use whichever you desire but any perceived oil cooling as compared to the steel pan is going to be near non-existent and not enough to even consider as part of the equation.
Am aluminum pan will last forever unless ham hands are applied to the drain plug when tightening it or the drain plug gasket is omitted.
how was the replacement plug installed? was it one of those self tapping jobs? those stink. (not the word i would like to use, but decorum prevails)
a new, larger plug, with a proper drill, and tap works just fine.
i think you are going to sink a whale of a lot of $$ into this for IMHO an unnecessary replacement/repair.
A finned aluminum pan will provide MUCH more oil cooling than a steel one if it is in the slipstream…
I am assuming your 2001 oil pan is the same as my 2002 NB (Diesel) with the possible exception of size.
Rather than replacing the pan with a steel one, I suggest a Panzer plate. That is a steel plate that replaces the plastic belly pan that is OEM. That protects not only the oil pan but other parts as well. I have a Panzer plate in my garage right now waiting until I have time to put it on. There are a couple brands available.
As for the steel plug, I seem to get aluminum plugs with my filters, but frankly I have never checked. For the last couple of years I have been draining my oil from the top, so it is academic anyway for me. It saves time and, I get more oil out that way.
I know my 2002 NB TDI (diesel) has no fins and fins would not do all that much as it has a belly pan under it so little cool air is moving around there anyway.
you have a vacuum pump through the dipstick?
I recommend whichever you choose (aluminum or steel), you also buy a drain valve to replace the drain plug. FRAM and some of its competitors make drain valve kits that really make changing the oil easy. This will mean the drain plug never gets stripped again. When you take the car for an oil change, show the mechanic the directions on how to use the kit.
Hello. I have own a 2001 Ford Ranger V6. Can anyone tell me if my original oil pan is steel or aluminum? Did Ford manufacture the 2001s with both steel and cast aluminium? Would be possible to mistake a steel oil pan for cast aluminium? I have two different shops with different perspectives.
Please advise.
Check the metal with a magnet.
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The magnet will adhere to one and not the other?
Only to a steel one. Aluminum is not magnetic.
Thank you for your response.
Look up your truck on Rockauto, they list oil pans for the 3L and 4L V6 engines. Pics for both look steel.