Alternator failure and mileage?

Don’t hurt your arm patting yourself on the back. :blush:

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For me its the 1st and 3rd gen Integras.
Not so much about mileage as @bing says - I do not drive that much.
Its the design, handling, looks, convenience of the 1st gen hatchback (it was a motorbike, mini van all in one package). I guess Honda moved from Motor bikes to cars! If I see one with low mileage or re-built, I will be tempted - what it lacks is the mpg in todays world.

@bing - what were the tricks?
Regular oil changes, tranny, coolant, spark?
V6 engine?

Last I heard Honda built both .

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Drive 30,000 miles per year and your car will be used up before it gets old.

The grinding sound I heard can be heard here too - just about 7s into the video - mine was for longer duration but intermittent:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IM3VJRBtqCY
The link above validated my situation as per an inbox msg.

I am even wondering the sound I thought belt slipping might actually be the starter motor - in that case the sound got worse!

I thought the starter decision was over??

All manufactures have issues, just overall some have less then others, Toyota’s being one of those… And I have seen and or replaced way more Honda starters than Toyota starters in the last 25 years.. lol

According to bings combined milage of 1,600,000 miles, if breaking that down to miles per day over an average of a 45 year career, that comes out to an average of 136.75 miles per day on a 5 day work week… Driving that many miles per day/year to and from work, not for work is the best way to get the most miles out of a vehicle, less starting and warming up, probably mostly interstate or at least highway speeds (I don’t really see someone driving in heavy traffic for 2-3 hours each way every day for 45 years, YES I know it happens but..), so even though maintenance has a lot to do with it, you can take the same vehicle and drive it 2 miles per day round trip and chances are much less it will go as many miles as being driven above…

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I’m grateful for the members who gave me suggestions, and acted as a sounding board when I needed it. I also received inbox messages, and I posted educational links in the main thread to help everyone. Even a licensed shop once suggested just replacing the 4-year-old battery—guess they didn’t use necromancy either!

A crystal ball would have been nice—intermittent issues are the worst, especially with no CEL to go on.

I would have appreciated it if @purebred—who also mentioned being flagged—had brought the necromancy when I first reported the issue six weeks ago, and before it was fixed. It’s a bit late to bring up necromancy now that the problem has already been troubleshot and validated with video links.

Thanks for the pictorial illustration.

Boot replacement: The “insulator” is to be aligned with the vent hole as per the Denso instructions - but their diagram is different from the Toyota coil I have. I could not see the vent hole. Denso CSR kind of asked me to ignore the instructions!

The browned coil (picture posted earlier) cleaned like new with CRC electrical cleaner spray.

After changing the boots, I can feel the grip as I insert the coil. Serpentine belt was also slipping and was changed. Shop changed the starter.

Right after changing the sparks (before the boot replacement), the MPG increased from 34 to just under 37 as per the display! I thought Mazda’s give that many MPG! This is my first Toyota.

Update: However, my own calculation shows 35mpg based on 250mile drive. Toyota seems always higher.

Repair is now complete! Thanks all.

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Update: AI Generated

Why a Good Grip Is Important

When a spark plug boot gets old and no longer grips the spark plug tightly, it can cause several issues that do matter for engine performance and reliability.

1. Ensures Proper Electrical Connection

  • The boot’s main job is to insulate and secure the connection between the spark plug and the ignition coil or wire, ensuring the high-voltage current reaches the spark plug without leaking or arcing elsewhere7.
  • A loose or poorly gripping boot can lead to intermittent or weak connections, resulting in misfires, rough idling, or difficulty starting the engine7.

2. Prevents Arcing and Moisture Intrusion

  • A snug fit helps prevent moisture, dirt, and debris from entering the connection, which could otherwise cause electrical arcing or corrosion7.
  • If the boot doesn’t grip well, you may see visible arcing or even sparks around the plug area, which can damage both the plug and the coil and lead to engine misfires7.

3. Maintains Insulation and Protection

  • The boot insulates the high-voltage connection from engine heat and contaminants. As the boot ages and loses its elasticity, it may crack or become hard, reducing its protective qualities and increasing the risk of electrical issues7.

4. Secure Fit for Reliable Operation

  • When reinstalling spark plug boots, you should feel a distinct “click” or positive engagement. This confirms a solid connection that won’t vibrate loose during engine operation6.

Consequences of a Poor Grip

  • Increased risk of engine misfires and rough running7.
  • Potential for moisture and debris to cause corrosion or electrical shorts7.
  • Higher likelihood of arcing, which can damage ignition components and reduce engine efficiency7.
  • Difficulty starting the vehicle or a check engine light due to ignition issues7.

Benefit of Having a Good Grip

  • Reliable delivery of electrical current to the spark plug for consistent ignition76.
  • Protection against environmental factors like heat, oil, and debris, extending the lifespan of both the spark plug and the ignition coil7.
  • Reduced maintenance costs and prevention of more serious engine problems down the line17.
  • Smoother engine operation and better fuel efficiency, as the ignition system works as designed17.

In summary, a good grip by the spark plug boot is essential for proper engine performance, reliability, and longevity. If your boots are loose, cracked, or no longer grip the spark plug, it’s wise to replace them to avoid ignition problems and potential engine damage76.

  1. https://www.bstbraidedsleeve.com/why-use-the-spark-plug-boot-heat-shield_n237
  2. How to Choose the Best Spark Plug Wire Boot Protector - Heat Shield, Heat Reflective Material, Heat Shield Material
  3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oaDL679Cmdw
  4. Reddit - The heart of the internet
  5. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WVuBCDSxsGo
  6. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fPsOiLMK9u0
  7. How to Replace a Spark Plug Insulator Boot - AutoZone
  8. 6 Common Ignition Coil Failure Symptoms | Firestone Complete Auto Care
  9. Spark Plug Boot Loves Header... - Third Generation F-Body Message Boards
  10. Those Amazing Spark Plugs

ALERT
Important diagnosis test didn’t come up in this thread!
Which is to verify the “Security” light and making sure its not blinking while cranking!

Nonsense. The terminal inside the boot is responsible for the tight and proper connection to the spark plug post. As mentioned the boot is there for insulation and to prevent moisture or dirt ingress.

The click comes from the terminal engagement, not the boot. This would be better described as “When reinstalling spark plug wires…”

Whoever wrote this is a bit loose with the details and obsessed by the function of the boot.

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Yeah agreed..

I thought it looked mostly AI generated anyway…

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