Wondering if you notice my post saying the spark plug was not screwed on!
Wondering if the car could have still run without throwing a CEL - which it did!
The dielectric grease is to lock out moister and to keep the boots from sticking to the spark plugs down the road the next time you go to remove the COP’s…
This is what can/will happen if you don’t use dielectric grease inside the tips of the boots… PITA!!!
June 10th:
While the car runs much smoother with the new sparks, car didn’t start the 1st time today around 5pm - it was driven from 9am. It started the 2nd time without jump start or pressing the gas pedal - well it started on its own.
What things that I should focus on in troubleshooting the issue!
Measuring fuel pressure? But will it be conclusive on an intermittent issue?
When it happened the 2nd time on Sat, we tried about 6 times before jump starting it.
Update: June 11th
Happened again in the early morning. Several attempts and pressing the gas pedal didn’t go anywhere.
Tried again after 5mins and it started. I am a bit clueless. Battery passes the test but its about 4yrs old. If it were Honda, I would have gone for the Fuel Injectors.
No CEL. Once started car drives smooth. If the fuel pressure issue, it should have stalled or triggered CEL - pls correct me if I am wrong?
it cranks and battery voltage is 11.23V - another time it went to 10.5v. Either case, jump start worked. Does this mean starter motor is drawing more current and causing the issue?
Other thoughts: Crank/cam sensor - may not trigger CEL
My trusty m/c told me he is closed for rest of the week. There are so many shops but with bad reviews or too busy to take the car in. Intermittent issue is hard!
Is as measured while cranking?? or after cranking has stopped and you go out and check B volts??
Measure your voltage before cranking > during cranking > after cranking, and report back to us… I am curious what it is when it does not start only…
Also with a fully charged battery, turn in your head lights for 10-15 minutes (key off) and after the 10-15 minutes is up, check volts and see if it will start… You should be able to leave your lights on for about 30 minutes and the vehicle still start… Or use a battery load tester for this… These new fancy testers don’t always catch a bad/failing battery…
I did 2 measurement 30mins after an 80mile drive.
Engine is off: 12.78v
Engine is running: 13.78v
Turn off the engine: voltage was slowly dropping - I measured just over 13v. I did not hold long enough for it to come down to 12.78v
Update:
After over night cooling, its 12.67v
Issues: May 11 after a car wash - batt voltage was little low - jump started June 7th after BFluid flush at a shop - we drove off from shop fine but happened at the next stop - voltages were fine - cranking v was 11v.- jump started after several tries. Later one spark was found lose. All sparks replaced with Denso June 10th - 5pm - minor issue - started on the 2nd try - no jump start June 11th - 9am - multiple tries - paused for 5mins and it started - - no jump start
No DTC, no CEL
Load test: 14 or 15mins of head light on. Turned it off and car started fine.
4yr old battery
Pending repair: Serpentine belt as it slips when starting, occassionally