Alternator failure and mileage?

[sciconf]

@db4690

imo, the coil is not the cause, but rather a symptom of the problem

perhaps you’ve got a leaking spark plug tube seal and that’s why that particular coil boot appears different

Wondering if you notice my post saying the spark plug was not screwed on!
Wondering if the car could have still run without throwing a CEL - which it did!

[sciconf]

Anyone has a good video on replacing the boots specific to this Denso/Corolla 2009?

I checked Youtube:

• some have tapering springs - but in my case, photo of the spring looks symmetrical
• one in the video talked about aligning with a vent hole - so I am cautious about these nuances
• another talks about di-electric grease - world seems to have moved away from manual application of grease!

I could not find the manual online for DENSO 671-4318

More Information for DENSO 6714318

Thank you

[jtsanders]

Is this what you want?

Toyota Ignition Coil Boot

[sciconf]

Denso replied me:

• apply di-electric to the internal insulator tube and spark plug terminal.

Beyond that there is no orientation my case.

[davesmopar]

@sciconf

Denso replied me:

• apply di-electric to the internal insulator tube and spark plug terminal.

Beyond that there is no orientation my case.

The dielectric grease is to lock out moister and to keep the boots from sticking to the spark plugs down the road the next time you go to remove the COP’s…

This is what can/will happen if you don’t use dielectric grease inside the tips of the boots… PITA!!!

[sciconf]

@Nevada_545

If the engine is cranking but will not start, the first suspicion would be insufficient fuel pressure. How long did you crank the engine before giving up on starting the engine?

June 10th:
While the car runs much smoother with the new sparks, car didn’t start the 1st time today around 5pm - it was driven from 9am. It started the 2nd time without jump start or pressing the gas pedal - well it started on its own.

What things that I should focus on in troubleshooting the issue!
Measuring fuel pressure? But will it be conclusive on an intermittent issue?

When it happened the 2nd time on Sat, we tried about 6 times before jump starting it.

Update: June 11th
Happened again in the early morning. Several attempts and pressing the gas pedal didn’t go anywhere.

Tried again after 5mins and it started. I am a bit clueless. Battery passes the test but its about 4yrs old. If it were Honda, I would have gone for the Fuel Injectors.

[Purebred]

@sciconf

car is moving to East cost - conditions are likely severe in East cost. I do not want my family member to be stranded

I got flagged to reminding responders of this.

[sciconf]

@Nevada_545

@sciconf

Battery measured 12.56v - when cranking it went down to 11.23v and wouldn’t start.

If the engine is cranking but will not start, the first suspicion would be insufficient fuel pressure. How long did you crank the engine before giving up on starting the engine?

• No CEL. Once started car drives smooth. If the fuel pressure issue, it should have stalled or triggered CEL - pls correct me if I am wrong?
• it cranks and battery voltage is 11.23V - another time it went to 10.5v. Either case, jump start worked. Does this mean starter motor is drawing more current and causing the issue?
• Other thoughts: Crank/cam sensor - may not trigger CEL

My trusty m/c told me he is closed for rest of the week. There are so many shops but with bad reviews or too busy to take the car in. Intermittent issue is hard!

Nice video but again mine is intermittent:
https://youtu.be/-sLFNi1drc4

[davesmopar]

@sciconf

it cranks and battery voltage is 11.23V - another time it went to 10.5v. Either case, jump start worked.

Is as measured while cranking?? or after cranking has stopped and you go out and check B volts??

Measure your voltage before cranking > during cranking > after cranking, and report back to us… I am curious what it is when it does not start only…

Also with a fully charged battery, turn in your head lights for 10-15 minutes (key off) and after the 10-15 minutes is up, check volts and see if it will start… You should be able to leave your lights on for about 30 minutes and the vehicle still start… Or use a battery load tester for this… These new fancy testers don’t always catch a bad/failing battery…

[sciconf]

@davesmopar

@sciconf

it cranks and battery voltage is 11.23V - another time it went to 10.5v. Either case, jump start worked.

Is as measured while cranking?? or after cranking has stopped and you go out and check B volts??

I measured before cranking, during cranking but never right after. Before cranking mostly 12.56. During it was 11.23v and another time 10.5v.

After several cranking it was 12.44V (this could be after cranking that you were asking - but not right after).

I will give it a try on manual load test of the battery.

[sciconf]

@davesmopar

Measure your voltage before cranking > during cranking > after cranking, and report back to us… I am curious what it is when it does not start only…

I did 2 measurement 30mins after an 80mile drive.
Engine is off: 12.78v
Engine is running: 13.78v
Turn off the engine: voltage was slowly dropping - I measured just over 13v. I did not hold long enough for it to come down to 12.78v

Update:
After over night cooling, its 12.67v
Issues:
May 11 after a car wash - batt voltage was little low - jump started
June 7th after BFluid flush at a shop - we drove off from shop fine but happened at the next stop - voltages were fine - cranking v was 11v.- jump started after several tries. Later one spark was found lose. All sparks replaced with Denso
June 10th - 5pm - minor issue - started on the 2nd try - no jump start
June 11th - 9am - multiple tries - paused for 5mins and it started - - no jump start

No DTC, no CEL

Load test: 14 or 15mins of head light on. Turned it off and car started fine.

4yr old battery

Pending repair: Serpentine belt as it slips when starting, occassionally