Yes, the rear rearward lower control arm (link) is adjustable in order to adjust the rear toe (not camber) on many Toyota/Lexus vehicles…
The nick name for it would be Toe Bar/Link, but only because it adjust the rear toe…
Yes, as I already explained in an earlier post, it is a turn buckle (with jam nuts)…
Ouuuuch!
That smarts
I am almost at a loss for words, I don’t understand what/how you don’t understand about taking a New part and laying it beside the Old part, or holding the 2 parts next to/side by side to compare them to each other before installing the new part…
Do you blindly always install parts with out checking to make sure they are correct?? I mean, what is next, you order a TF727 transmission and they send you a Ford C6 transmission, would you just try to install it without even looking to see if it was the correct one or not?? It is the same thing, there is nothing impractical about looking at your parts to see if they look the same or not…
Yes jam nuts..
Lock nuts are nuts that come in various types, including nylon insert lock nuts, serrated flange lock nuts, and prevailing torque lock nuts and are used generally on a bolt and designed to prevent loosening under vibration or torque, they do not turn on the bolt freely, whereas a jam nut typically turns freely and is used to jam up against another threaded item to lock it in place…
But I guess they all fall under lock nuts… lol
for some reason the one on the left has no jam nuts lol.
Can toe be the culprit for severe out edge wear? I know my front tire is out of alignment as evident by the steering wheel, but there’s very little wear on the front. The rear tire where I messed with the control arm has the most severe edge wear.
Picture please… My guess is they are very corroded and hard to tell the jam nuts are there and or you are having trouble seeing them
Your total toe could be in spec but your Steer Ahead could be off, meaning your steering wheel is off center…
In such case the car may go straight, but the steering wheel is tilted to one side or the other.
That’s why, if I worked as an aligner, I’d still use a steering wheel-to-seat lock, even if my shop had the latest and most sophisticated Hunter, etc. equipment in house, that no longer required using one.
This is about the rear suspension, so the steering wheel might not be off.
Yeah, use a less reliable system and hope for a better result. That makes sense.
Do you also plan to dust off the old A111 alignment machine that has strings running from wheel to wheel? 
With the wind and or fans blowing the strings… lol
Or your “buddy” throws a rag on the string…
Or not being able to open the driver’s door because the strings in the way, or having a string break and tying it in a knot to get the alignment done.
I was so happy when I went to a shop that had a newer Bear aligner that didn’t have strings. Also that Bear machine allowed to just hang the front heads to do a quick toe-n-go.
I want to ensure that that steering wheel doesn’t move one millimeter - under any circumstance, during adjustment of the toe angles.
the front steering is off.
Now I’m confused. Are the parts you’re asking about in the front or rear?
Set the rear toe first, then evaluate the front. When adjusting the rear toe, use line of sight with the front wheels to set each rear wheels equally.
It has been 5 days; how long will it take you to get outside and perform this adjustment?
the main issue is the rear tires that have a severe tire wear. My front tires also have a toe issue but its an easier fix. I messed around with the front toe a while back and made the steering crooked and was too lazy to look back into it. I didn’t want to keep messing with it.
I’m waiting for my new tires to come in.
I’d have a good shop align this car (if it can be aligned, given the crash history) to keep from wearing out tires.
(generally) Not needed, as long as the tires are the same size, you are aligning the vehicle not the tires…
I have aligned many vehicles with the old tires still on and then double checked (testing) after new tires were installed and the alignment was the same…
Can a severely over-inflated tire(thus harder) or one with severely asymmetrical treadwear side to side, “tilt” the tire & wheel assembly enough to give false readings on the machine?