Typical tie rod system. Trying to go for zero toe, which is ideal spec for my car
I’m trying to adjust toe using toe plates. If the measuring tape closest to the front of the vehicle is greater than the other one, which tie rod do I adjust left or right? And do I spin the tie rod out to increase toe or in to decrease.
Same question for the opposite case. Measuring tape in the front closest to the front of the car is less than the second one closest to the rear of the car, what adjustment should I make.
I’m trying to get it close before going to alignment shop.
With the steering wheel in the straight ahead position, you can adjust one side at a time. If the steering wheel is usually straight while driving, you should adjust both turnbuckles equally or the wheel will not be straight while driving. Either way it will be a small challenge until you get a little practice. You can’t really mess it up.
If your steering wheel is straight ahead, you should never adjust one tie rod, they should be turned equally in the same direction.
If you cannot figure out which way to tirn them by looking at the threads on the tie rod ends, you have no business attempting this.
Toe plates are only used to correct the toe where it cannot be adjusted, like the rear wheels of most cars,or as a poor fix for bent parts that should be replaced instead.
It’s worthwhile doing the initial toe-setting as long as it is done safely, if only for the learning experience. There’s three factors involved.
The actual toe measurement should match spec
The steering wheel should be centered when driving straight down the road
Also, the position of the steering rack should be centered, meaning the same number of steering wheel turns to go from straight to the left limit vs straight to the right limit.
Suggest to double-check the last two before making any adjustments.
So, I’m guessing the OP spent a boat load of money on these Side Plates so he can impress the Alignment Specialist that his car may not need an alignment, which he will still pay for as the Specialist still has to perform the inspection…
OP, you do realize that you need to do this on a Flat surface, where you will be lying on your back, so it helps that the surface also be clean and not in the sun (hot cement and blinding light on the tape measure…) and you need two Tape Measure of the exact make and model… From you desire to be so exact, any deviation in the length of the tape measures will make it all for naught…
And I noticed that no one reminded the OP not to jack up the car while trying to adjust the Tie Rod, nor how to tighten the lock nut without making further adjustments…
OP, take the advice of the members suggesting you not attempt this and take it directly to the Alignment Specialist. If you paid for the Side Plates, take them back for a refund or sell them on ebay or Craigslist or Marketplace or wherever you frequent…
I am not opposed to adjusting the toe after replacing steering or suspension parts. Some people would advise that driving with out-of-spec toe could be dangerous, but apparently not today.
You just need to practice with adjustments. Keep the steering wheel centered. When making toe adjustments to correct measurements, use line-of-sight; front tires with rear tires to ensure the toe adjustments are equal left/right sides.
Never sell your tools, unless this is your last car. You might make use of your tools many times during the next 40 years.
Read the very 1st reply… lol
But one thing that no one mentioned is how to hold the steering wheel without the proper tool, cause it will move otherwise…
Move your drivers seat forward and run the seatbelt around the steering wheel (twice of possible), making sure the steering wheel is straight, move the seat back until the belt is very tight…
This is also how you tow a RWD vehicle with the rear wheels lifted in the air or on a tow dolly when the driveshaft is still installed…
As I recall four wheel independent suspension requires setting the toe against the center line of the chassis and similary keeping the wheel centered for all vehicles requires setting to the center.
Modern day alignment equipment no longer requires the use of that tool. A tech just centers the steering wheel, and the aligner uses the readings to tell the tech which tie rod to turn how far.
I was shop manager at a place known for alignment work. Out of 5 of us that did alignments, only 2 of us “old timers” used a steering wheel lock. Technology is a marvelous thing.
And not needed for someone that will very rarely use it, and if not used correctly, heck even if used correctly, it can still slip and the steering wheel can move, OP is just trying to get it close, not perfect…
All the ones I worked at, until the Win-Toe (I think it is called IIRC) came out… Then not much use for it for those techs that use it, but still used for the old school guys…
Again, don’t overthink it, OP is just getting the wheels mostly straight in order to drive the vehicle to the shop for a proper alignment…
I am sure the OP will be safe and OK cause he will check the rear bumper bolts for proper torque before driving it after working on the front end… lol
