I currently own a 2011 plate Volvo S60, I bought it around 2 months ago and I’ve had non stop silly little issues with it but my current issue is a reoccuring one that’s driving me crazy. Just as little history since I’ve owned it, it’s been in under warranty several times - the first time the place we bought it from had overfilled it quite badly with oil when changing the oil which in turn put the engine under pressure and the battery was also replaced, the second time it went back in there was a knocking/clanking sound coming from the drivers side so they replaced the stabiliser links and a tie rod this seemed to fix the issue, the third time was just after I got it back from having the links and tie rod done - there was an awful scrapping sound coming from the drivers wheel along with the steering wheel shaking it had both front brake discs replaced and it was fine now this current issue is the same knocking/clanking sound coming from the drivers side and occasionally the passenger side it started off very quiet, not constantly I only heard it here and there so I let it slide but today was awful it was louder than it’s ever been, I then told my other half to get in the car so I could show him the noise and poof the noise is no longer there… I was wondering if anyone has had this issue with a Volvo or maybe some advice on what it could be? The car is booked to go back in under warranty tomorrow but I have little faith in the company we bought it from as this issue was temporarily fixed - sure they replaced the parts but it’s been about a week since that was done and here I am again with the same issue…
Thanks
Let me get this straight… You bought a nearly 15 year old Volvo with xxx miles (you don’t say) with a warranty? I assume you paid for this warranty? Or was it included with the sale… And for how long?
My advice is to make a pest of yourself to the dealer and ride that warranty as hard and as long as you can to get as many things fixed as possible before it runs out. These problems will keep happening and they will get more expensive.
Then sell it, trade it or scrap it. It will ruin you financially if you keep it.
Yes it was warranty included with the sale the car for 3 months - I also got a further free 12 months warranty through the company dealing with the financials so I have some time with it for now, I’ve been doing just that… acting on any of the problems immediately to get as much I can done through them. No it’s maybe not the best car, no it’s not a new car I realise that but I have to put up with what I have - it was at just over 90k when I bought it. I’m aware there’s going to be issues and wear and tear etc that’s fine but maybe didn’t realise it would be so soon, constantly and the same solved issue arising yet again. Poor choice on my part I suppose, just wanted a cheap run about for a bit. Thanks
All of that can be true with any used car, but buying a used European-made car makes it more likely that you will need repairs, and–for sure–those repairs will be more expensive than a comparable repair on a Japanese-made car.
I think that you should follow Mustangman’s advice as soon as you are able to do so, and then look for a Toyota, or Honda, or Mazda, or Acura, or Lexus–making sure to get a pre-purchase inspection by a mechanic of your choice.
As you probably recall, I’m in that group. While my total POS Volvo was purchased several decades ago, it was such unadultered, unreliable, expensive-to-repair crap that I would never even contemplate buying another one.
My father in law had a diesel Volvo sedan in the 1970s and there was often a problem with it. His solution was to buy an Oldsmobile and then he was happy. So happy that he replaced it with another. Had to get a Buick for his next and last one after Olds shut down.
I saw a similar Volvo for sale. Seller said it was great. But needed a valve adjustment. My theory is, he knows motor has issues and is either lying about a problem or clueless.
In order to provide some perspective on just how crapalacious my Volvo was, my next car was a Chevy Citation, which was one of the notoriously-bad GM “X” cars. While my Citation was far from perfect, it was actually much more reliable than the Volvo.
My uncle was gifted a Volvo ( notice I said gifted). The donor didn’t feel it was necessary selling the car.
My uncle received the car with great enthusiasm only to later regret it as the car gave him nothing but constant headache. I don’t know what he did with it but he no longer owns it.
Those problems seem pretty much expected for a 15 year old car. Nothing that unusual. No dispute w/the comments above, but since you can’t un-buy it, suggest to just keep on repairing it as needed. .Problematic brakes, suspension parts, and steering parts are common causes for the noise you described. If you can narrow down the sound location , and under what driving conditions it occurs most frequently, that will aid your shop. While braking? While coasting in neutral. In gear? During acceleration? Certain vehicle speed ranges? Certain rpm ranges? Only of rough roads? etc.
I became quite adept at replacing the fuel pump, which was necessary every 18 months or so. I left the constant repair of the CIS and the electrical system to my mechanic.
Without doubt!
My Volvo problems began on day one, when I found that the heater didn’t work. It took 3 visits to the dealership before they found that the heat control knob had never been connected to the valve that controlled coolant flow to the heater core. Great build quality!
By month two, the battery went dead because the instrument panel lights couldn’t be turned off. The electrical system was a constant nightmare for the 7 years that I owned it, as was the Constant Injection System. Even the paint was completely chalked after a couple of years, and it began to burn oil by 60k miles, despite excellent maintenance.
I won’t bore everyone with all of the details of its many, ongoing problems, but suffice it to say that just the mention of the word “Volvo” still gets my blood boiling. The ONLY good things about the car were its fantastic brakes and its Michelin tires, but obviously the car company couldn’t be credited with the excellent tires.
Well welcome to the forum and it is nice to see another Tennessean here (North of Nashville here)…
Telling you not to buy a vehicle you already bought is not helping you much, but future buying, stay away from anything not Japanese and some American built… I stick with Toyota’s and Honda’s, Mazda’s seem to be lasting also…
Since you are having so many issues with the Volvo and it is still under warranty, I would talk to them about trading the vehicle for something else on the lot, they might go for it… But Mustangman pretty much nailed it, the Volvo is going to cost you a lot of money to keep on the road…
Anytime a luxury vehicle in 10-20 years becomes a cheap run about car, there is a good reason, they turn to junk and are expensive to repair, most new owners trade them once the warranty is up or before hand…
A car that holds it’s value longer is typically a better built vehicle for the long run, that is why older Toyota’s are still pricey, they hold up better over time on average…
I lost my faith when they overfilled the engine oil…
Anyway, sorry you are having all these problems, and I hope you can get them resolved soon and trade it for something else, it would be cheaper in the long run once the warranty runs out, maybe before hand if you count your time having to deal with it…
“In 1971 I bought a 1967 122S. Four on the floor, seat belts, great car.
Was that the last good year for Volvo?”
After I bought my '74 Volvo POS, two co-workers revealed that their Volvos ('72 & '73) were also electrical and mechanical nightmares. I suspect that your “Amazon” model Volvo was among the last Volvos with decent reliability.
The early 1970s was when emissions abatement equipment started use wasn’t it? If so, I wonder if the lack of reliability associated with new tech might have made the problems worse for your Volvo compared to the 1971 version.
