I’m a bit hesitant to express an opinion because the damage does not look that bad to me. I’m somewhat mechanically inclined and can do bodywork, so my viewpoint mayb be at odds.
My thought was (if the car were mine) to find a door in a matching color and then tap the rest of it back into place. It may not be perfect but could be perfectly functional. The last thing you want in a college parking lot is perfect…
Before making a decision you might do a quick search for a matching door and then price the repair at a body shop since the bulk of the body work would be working out the existing damaged door. You might come out ahead this way. If not, then I agree with taking the money and moving on.
Not as well used as you might think. 88k and a clean CarFax. FWIW, I searched Autotrader.com for vehicles within 10 mi. with 150k or less and a max. price of $5000. The only option I specified was an automatic transmission. I turned up 16 vehicles including a 2003 Land Rover for $800. Except for the Fiesta everything else was a 2001 or older, or had a bunch of miles or both. In other words, slim pickins.
No it can’t but we’re talking about a commuter vehicle for a college student and beggars can’t be choosers. If Dad is willing to kick in another $10k or so on top of the insurance settlement then he can be picky.
I took the wheel off the car this afternoon and took a look. As Bing predicted in an earlier post, there’s only 3" of space to “swing” a hammer. The best I could do was gentle tapping.
Since I don’t really have anything to lose, I am going to get a small bottle jack and position it between the rear frame rail and crushed wheel well. I only need to move the wheel well an inch or two. Hopefully, that will be the part that moves, not the frame rail. I also did some online car shopping if my “bodywork” turns out to be a dead end.
My daughter mentioned today that when the Vibe was hit in the driver’s rear quarter, it spun the Vibe around to the point where it hit the curb with the passenger side rear wheel. I did not realize that was the case. She said the curb impact was more than a gentle hit, but not a very hard one. The mechanic said the car’s alignment is still straight, so I guess the curb hit is a non-issue. Just something else for me to mull over.
Maybe you can rent a kit like this with the various ends and lengths that might be needed. If you get a hydraulic jack make sure that it can be used in various positions. Some (maybe a lot) only work vertically. I’ve never had much luck though jacking anything out but maybe with clamps, 2x4s, pipes, welder, who knows, if you can get a good grip somewhere. I guess be ready with plan B if the jacking works and the door latch is broken and it won’t stay shut anymore. Hey, life is a risk. Nothing is accomplished without risk. Maybe buy the car back and get your money first, then try to improve the situation.
There is also a slide hammer that might help some if it has a hook on the end and you can find some place to hook it to. In the old days it would have a sheet metal screw on the end and you’d drill a hole to pull out the dent. Now they weld pins on instead.
As I said, I believe a college student should have a reliable car, part of the reason being that they’ll probably not do a very good job taking care of it
So nothing with a dual-clutch automatic or cvt, as far as I’m concerned
And transmission aside, I don’t consider a Ford Fiesta to be reliable, anyways
I’d even consider something as mundane as a Toyota Yaris over a Ford Fiesta. Sure, it’s boring, but it should have typical Toyota reliability
An older Civic or Fit . . . preferably non-CVT . . . would also be a good bet
Maybe op said where they’re located . . . if so, I wasn’t paying attention . . . it might be impossible to find a car that isn’t rusted out to the point of being unsafe for $5000
I’m in Wisconsin, so winter is salty. You can find older vehicles that were driven in this region that have minimal corrosion, but it takes a lot of looking.
My daughter has seen a friend struggle with the unreliability and expenses that come from a car that requires a different repair every other month. Her Vibe has been reliable in the two years she has owned it, and for that reason, she is reluctant to let it go. She said she doesn’t mind driving a vehicle with body damage as long as it is reliable. She is concerned a replacement vehicle could be problematic like her friend’s car. That is why I am going try pushing out the wheel well myself.
Thanks for the ideas about vehicles and the ram kit. I did not know such a tool existed.
Danger will robinson. I would extend the reach of your hammer with a stout bar or pipe before I would jack one part of the car against another. It may no longer be in alignment after your home made porta power job…
I lived in Wisconsin, the times that I faced water levels above the bottom of the door were avoidable. I would continue to use this vehicle and not take chances with a $4000 used jalopy.
If the wheel bearings were damaged by the collision, this would likely cost less to repair than fixing up a different used car.
To straighten the damaged dog leg, a 10 pound slide hammer with a hook might move that metal but that area is reinforced, it will be difficult to move.
I lived through driving several cars that were pretty bashed up when I was in my 20’s, they leaked in the rain and rattled and one had a door that would open randomly. I had very little money and bought $150- $250 cars (in 1969- 1976) that I patched together and used. In those years I crossed the US a couple of times and got around ok. The idea of having a reliable, quiet and solid running car was a goal, but not a reality. Is that so terrible? Are we required to supply our children with cars that meet out middle aged aspirations?
This young woman is saying she wants to keep the car. If you think the door might pop open at any moment have someone weld it shut.
Here’s what goes along with my line of thinking. And they even have a “Make an Offer” option and it appears to be the same shade. At least with the existing car you know what you have. And with free shipping I would not try to lowball an offer. Keep it respectful if you go this route. Say 300 bucks…
You could spend 10 or 15 grand on a used car and end up with a major headache. (Look at the thread from a guy who bought a 2019 Toyota CPO vehicle several weeks ago with 29k miles and he’s now in the middle of a ruckus with Toyota over the fact that it apparently needs a new engine.)
I’d fix that Pontiac Vibe . . . before selling it and getting a Ford Fiesta
No argument there
I for one don’t think it’ll come to that. I believe the sheet metal could be “persuaded” back into place, so that it doesn’t interfere with the tire, while at the same time the door could still open and close correctly
The crease in the door would remain, but that’s not the sticking point, anyways
That sounds like a fair price. Sheet metal isn’t cheap, especially when we’re talking about a door with most of the trimmings
Several years ago, I paid $300 for a used door . . . same color as my car, for what it’s worth . . . which included everything, including the inner door panel, unlike the ebay door you mentioned. My particular door even included the side airbag, which I thought made it a smoking deal, so to speak
After op gets the protruding sheet metal somewhat back into place with that portapower, finding a door like that, preferably locally, would be the goal
