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AC compressor I.D

Hey guys, My car (1998 Protégé) has been without AC since 2008 due to a failed bearing in the compressor’s pulley. I’m about to take a trip to Florida so I’ve decided to try and get the AC up and running. The compressor was replaced in 2002 and I’m pretty sure that it wasn’t with an OEM compressor. I climbed under the car and was able to get these numbers off the compressor: 60 3005 11031. Are these numbers enough to positively I.D the compressor so I can get the correct bearing? Or does the compressor have to be unbolted in order to get the model number? I’ve got the bearing removed and it’s in such bad shape I can’t see any numbers on it. Actually, when I removed the clutch, I could see all the little balls and no rubber seal whatsoever and no inner metal ring. No Idea how it got to this point but it was pretty shocking to see. Especially since I couldn’t find any remnants of the seals or center ring.

I mentioned how long the AC has been out of commission just in case there are any potential issues with running an AC system that hasn’t been used in 9 years? The AC was working perfectly fine/blowing cold air (except the noise from the bad bearing) right up until I had the compressor bypassed back in 2008.

1998 vehicle that has not had a working air conditioner for years. You could easily spend more than the vehicle is worth. I would rent a vehicle for this trip and if something breaks you just call and they will replace it.

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RockAuto doesn’t list a replacement clutch bearing.

They only list a compressor assembly.

If RockAuto doesn’t list the bearing, it usually means it’s not available.

If the AC system has been out of commission for nine years with no refrigerant, expect to rebuild the entire AC system.


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That’s an excellent suggestion, but if you do want to fix it you’ll need to take it to a certified automotive AC technician. They’ll have the expertise, the equipment, and the certification necessary to go through the system and get 'er done. Do-It-Yourselfers generally don’t.

Have a great trip, whatever you decide.

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I don’t think it’s been without refrigerant, the system has never been opened up. Just the pulley/clutch removed.

Have you checked if it has a refrigerant charge?


No. How is it done?

That’s a big assumption on a system that age. The seals are all elastomers, and over time they dry, shrink, and lose their compressions by “cold flowing” to the geometry they’re compressed in, all combining to cause a loss of coolant through leakage. I’d be surprised if the system is still full and pressurized.

But I hope I’m wrong. An AC tech can tell you for certain. Trying to fix the system yourself at home is likely to be futile.

You don’t know what the quote will be. So why be afraid of something you don’t know?
Besides, if the rest of the vehicle is in good shape it’s probably well worth it to get it fixed. I’ve long believed that a car’s real value to its owner is often much more than its value on the used car market.

‘‘The seals are all elastomers, and over time they dry, shrink, and lose their compressions by “cold flowing” to the geometry they’re compressed in, all combining to cause a loss of coolant through leakage.’’

Alright, didn’t know that. I’ll have it checked out. Thanks

Remove the plastic cap from either the high/low pressure port, and with a long screwdriver depress the Schrader valve.

If the system is under pressure, you’ll see/hear it.


I’ll try that tomorrow. Nobody knows if the number in my OP is enough to get the correct parts for this compressor? I googled ‘‘ac compressor 3005’’ and the compressor that came up was a Sanden that is compatible with my car but I want to be 100% before ordering. I was planning to get a clutch too, along with the bearing. Anyways, I appreciate everyone’s input. Always impressed with the quickness and quality of help I get from this site.

I think you mean the clutch pulley. The compressor has only a shaft that the clutch assembly attaches to. Simply get a new clutch assemble for $70 and replace the old one. Most shaft sizes are the same, so ordering clutch assembly should not be that difficult. Call Rockauto and I am sure they can help you. Or, take the old assembly to Advance Auto Parts or Autozone and get help there.

I would be a little concerned that the AC has not been working for the last 9 years, but with a little luck it might just work fine. If not you have a new set of challenges ahead and that is reloading the system with refrigerants. You might want to watch some youtube videos and see if you want to take up that challenge. You will need a set of gauges, like these:


When working on an AC system, work with local parts suppliers.

That way, if you get the wrong part, they’re nearby. And they’re willing to get you the right part.

Over the internet?


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They’ll be correct, but they’ll be the car manufacturer’s part number, available only from the dealer. Dealer parts are generally 2 to 2-1/2 times the cost of aftermarket parts, and aftermarket parts are often just as good. As a matter of fact, the aftermarket parts will often be the exact same part but without the car manufacturer’s part number on it.

What actually happens is that a car manufacturer’s design team will spec their needs and send them to (in this case) an AC compressor manufacturer. The compressor manufacturer will supply samples for testing, and if they’re acceptable the design team will put the vendor’s part number on a drawing of their own along with the critical specs and create a “spec control drawing” with their own part number on it. Then, forever after, it’ll be purchased to the “spec control” drawing. This prevents the vendor from changing their design during the car’s production run in a way that’ll affect the application without making the car company aware of it. But it also allows the designers to test and add other vendors for the part if there are any. The vendor will then begin to sell the part as an aftermarket replacement part under their own part number.

If it’s a critical part, or one proprietary to the vendor, the car manufacturer will create a “source control drawing” that will prohibit buying from any other vendor even if they claim to meet the technical requirements. But that’s another story for another thread.

I like this idea. If the system is still under pressure I’ll take the clutch pulley and what’s left of the bearing to my local parts store.

Are you positive it is the clutch bearing that is bad? Is there a belt on the a/c compressor now? If there is a belt on it and it spins with the engine, the clutch pulley is fine. Perhaps the clutch coil (big magnet) is bad? Or the compressor itself?

It’s not unheard of, but I’ve seen a lot more compressors go bad than clutch pulleys.

This is what my clutch assembly looked like when I replaced it several months ago on a 1999 Dodge Durango. Clutch would not engage and it is obvious why not. Top row new and bottom row old.

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This may be a lengthy and expensive project, but if you need AC, you got to start somewhere.

From what I can tell, for the 1.5 L Protégé DX, the Mazda part number for the compressor is BC1M61450A. A little under $600. Check w/your Mazda dealership parts dept to confirm.

If there’s a chance the system is contaminated with anything, for example bits of metal from a failed compressor, probably best to bring in your local AC expert to offer advice before continuing. You don’t want that contamination getting into the new compressor and ruining it too.

it’s a 19 year old car… I can get a rebuilt compressor for ~$150 for this car.

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‘‘Are you positive it is the clutch bearing that is bad? Is there a belt on the a/c compressor now?’’

Absolutely 100% positive. As soon as I removed the clutch plate I could see all the little silver balls in the bearing housing, no seals on either side. I guess they somehow got turned to dust but I’m having a hard time imaging how that could have happened.

And to answer your other question; no, there hasn’t been a belt on the compressor since 2008.

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