ABS Light Flashes Sometimes, No Fault Codes

I have a 2005 Toyota Camry with about 180,000 miles on it.

When I start my car cold, I’ve noticed it takes a few seconds longer to start, it cranks for longer than normal. It eventually turns on though and runs like normal. However the ABS light flashes, and keeps flashing, even after start up.

When this happened I turned off my car, and then turned it back on. It turned on like normal, and the ABS light was no longer flashing. Even when I go somewhere and leave my car off for over an hour, starts up and runs like fine.

I checked for fault codes, and there were none stored or logged.

I figured it must have just been an anomaly and ignored it.

However today (letting it sit overnight) it happened again. Same exact thing.

I’m not entirely sure if it taking longer than normal to start up and the ABS light flashing are two separate problems, or the same failing part causing both of these symptoms.

This is more of just an annoyance at this point, as it doesn’t effect my ability to use my car. But I’m not sure if these are symptoms of a part failing, and how to go about diagnosing what part, if any is failing.

Thanks for any help and suggestions.

I don’t know if it’s realavent or not, but I first started noticing this issue right after plugging in the progressive insurance car monitor device thing

After the car has sat overnight, before you start the engine, turn the ignition on so the dash lights turn on for two seconds and then turn the ignition off.

Repeat this a half dozen times and then try starting the engine.

If the engine starts right up without hesitation, it points to a problem with the anti drain-back valve on the fuel pump.

When you first start the engine, the ABS system performs a self test. If the ABS light flashes it indicates a fault with the ABS system.

A regular OBDII code reader/scanner can’t pull ABS codes.

You need a code reader/scanner capable of pulling ABS codes.



You have a 2020 Honda Civic so do you really need this possibly past it’s sell date vehicle ? After all you have several threads about problems with this Camry.

Thanks for the quick replies!
I didn’t know that about the scanner.
I’ll have to get one that supports ABS.
I’ll also try the test you mention about the fuel pump.

Yes the basic scanner only scans for Engine / emission related codes. It might get read transmission codes too from the same PCM. The airbag ECU, ABS ECU, climate control ECU, Instrument cluster ECU (which can sometimes store an alternate odometer), even the power seat adjustment ECUs can all have diagnostic codes that require manufacturer specific access methods. So you need the right software for you computer OBD II reader or a special scan tool for it.

Re: more cranking than usual needed

Good advice about the anti-drain back valve. Another idea, , taking more cranking time than usual to start could also point to a leaking fuel injector. In that case the fuel in the fuel rail leaks into the engine (rather than into the gas tank) when the ignition is turned off. The resulting symptoms are more or less the same.

Re: ABS light

Could be caused by the ABS system itself, or could be caused by a faulty wheel speed sensor. The ABS system monitors the rotation of the 4 wheels to decide when it needs to activate. The first step is to make sure all the tires are the correct size and inflated to the correct pressure.

Hello Friends,

The issue has occurred twice sense my last post. Both cases when it was cold outside and has sat overnight.

I got a scanner that supports ABS for my vehicle. INNOVA 6030P, in the mail.

The scanner supports ABS for my vehicle. Per their website, OBD2 6030p Scan Tool – Innova

However when I did the scan. There are apparently no ABS codes stored on the vehicles computer.

So I’m at a loss on how to diagnosis my issue with the ABS system described earlier. Sometimes on startup the ABS light flashes and stays flashing. However turning off the car and turning it back on, the ABS light goes off after the self test and remains off.

I’ll keep the scanner in my car, and if it happens again, plug in the scanner to see if there are any codes while the ABS is flashing and stays flashing even after the self test.

Thanks for any suggestions or help on how to diagnosis this issue.

I don’t know if it helps but here’s a video of it (from before I got the scanner). Isn’t it supposed to flash and pause at a certain frequency to determine the code? Mine just seems to be “flash, pause, flash” non-stop, which I’m not sure what that means. This is the flash

With ABS, your system regulates braking power to prevent a mechanical failure. For fast repairs, schedule an appointment. When the warning light is on, it could mean that a sensor has gone bad or needs cleaning. … A blinking light is a warning that your safety may be endangered if you drive .


Thanks! What do you recommend I do? Given that there appears to be no stored codes, and I can’t replicate the issue at will. It stops flashing when I turn it off and turn it back on too.

I’m also confused why there would be no codes stored.

So I checked my Chilton Book on how to read the codes to see if it would match up with my scanner.

I followed the instructions and put a jumper wire on the sockets it mentions. Sure enough the ABS flashes on and off with the car “ON” and engine off. I turn the car off, remove the wire, and then turn the car back to the “ON” position with the engine off. Sure enough the ABS light is no longer flashing. So I think I hooked up the jumper correctly.

Per the Chilton book the pause is “1.5 seconds” (see the picture).

Here’s a video of the process, just in case I’m mistaken.

But interesting to note. My book says “If the system is operating normally (no malfunctions), the warning light will blink once every 0.5 seconds.” This seems to be what I’m observing when I try to read the code. So I guess there’s no codes stored on the computer, verified by my scanner, and myself using a jumper and observing the flashing ABS with the car on but the engine off.

I’m stumped.

Hopefully it happens again upon startup, I’ll have my scanner ready with me if it does. I’m leaving it in the car. To see what code is there, if any. But in the mean time I don’t know what to do.

Sometimes there will be a “pending” code stored, but no active. For some active codes to appear, the computer must first put it in the pending list, then wait to see if the problem re-occurs. If so it will transfer the code to the active list. Check the instructions that came w/your scanner to see if there’s a way to inspect the pending codes.

Re: built in code reading function

My early 90’s Corolla has a similar function for reading the engine codes. The instructions to read the codes (using the jumper wire & flashing dashboard light) – even the ones in the Toyota shop manual – don’t work. At least not a car configured w/ a manual transmission. To get the codes to flash out, beyond what the instructions say, I have to start the engine, then press briefly on the gas pedal. Why have this complication? Go figure. Not recommending this is what you should do, just a heads up that the instructions in your manual may not be complete.

So I did end up checking through the manual https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/A16w+njhokL.pdf

I found this page and apparently my scan tool does display pending fault codes. However, unlike what’s specified in the manual, I get a yellow LED, but I get no numeric code, nor does the word pending appear. I get the second screen high lighted in yellow.

It has happened once sense my last post. I had my scan tool with me when it happened. Same thing happened, no fault codes.

I would have taken a video of it but missed the opportunity. I will the next time it happens.

What do you recommend I do? I should I just ignore this issue because it doesn’t appear to be triggering any fault codes? I’m really at a loss on how to troubleshoot this. It is especially hard because I can’t replicate the problem at will. It doesn’t seem to happen every time the car sits over night, but only sometimes.

Pending codes pertains to PCM faults. ABS faults are either current or history, there is no second chance for ABS faults.

I would be inclined to remove the insurance monitoring device for awhile and see if this keeps happening. If it doesn’t, then plug it in and see. Maybe cycle that for two weeks at a time, two weeks in, two weeks out.

Does the ABS only flash right after start up? Is the car moving or just sitting still when this happens? Does it ever flash while the car is in motion? If it ever flashes when the vehicle is in motion, I would recommend that you get your wheel bearings/hubs checked.

Do you get a roar from the wheels when driving that gets worse when turning one direction or the other? That is another indication of worn wheel bearings.

Hey thanks. So it’s only right after start up, with the car in park. I don’t hear any winding or roaring sounds while driving. I’ll try removing the insurance monitoring device and see if it happens again.