I have A 97 Blazer the A/C Compressor is starting to get noisy! From what I’ve read its on its way out! When the compressor quits will it lock up and break the serpintine belt? Will I still be able to put a new belt on and drive the vehicle without the compressor engaged? (Will the pulley still freewheel)
Thanks CD
should.
no promises though.
depends how it fails.
so dont use it for now.
Find out if it is the compressor or the clutch bearing.
Take the serpentine belt off and spin the a/c pulley. If it is loose as a flies eye or makes a grinding
noise… its the bearing. If the bearing seizes then the belt will have to break or come loose making it dangerous to have a running motor with 6 feet of loose belt to wrap around something. (fan clutch)
If the noise goes away when you turn off the a/c, its the compressor. If it is the compressor,
the system will have to be recovered, and a compressor and orifice tube replaced, oil added and charged.
keep us posted on your progress and what you find.
Thanks, The noise goes away when I turn off the air. Its not a grinding noise its more of a Piston slap kinda noise that I would assosiate with the actual compressor. I added some r 134 with the stop leak and oil additive it got a little quieter. It needed the r134 now its cooling like its supposed to. I want to change the compressor myself. Can I take it to an shop and have it discharged and vaccumed? What is the cost of that sort of thing? Thanks Again CD
CD,
If you plan to do it yourself, I’d take it to a shop and have them recover the 134 in the system.
Then go home and change the compressor and orifice tube (don’t put the new one in backwards).
Because the compressor is coming apart inside there should be enough teflon and metal shavings
on the orifice tube to affect the cooling if you don’t change or clean it. Usually at the shop we clean them off using Brake Kleen or carburator cleaner…(however, it when you clean it and there is a tear in the screen, then you have to change it.) At my father’s A/C shop in Mobile, they change them regardless. Also, it is extremely important that you change both the high and low side fittings. About 85% of all cars fittings leak, the 134 gets low enough to shut the system down. The car is taken to a shop where the re-charge the system, and check for leaks while it is still hooked to the gauges… find no leaks, take off the gauges, and send you on the way with your original leaks. You’ll probably/should have to go to the Chevy parts dept to get the right fittings.
After everything is put back together then have it vaccuumed for at least 10 minutes and recharge the system. Hopes this helps,
Rick
Thanks, Rick, CD
Re: changing orifice tube. When I was changing a compressor a few years ago the warranty was void if you did not change the orifice tube.
Make that 30min min. evac time.Time for accumulator replacement IMHO (I know this issue is controversial)Do you know where the orfice tube is located? What type of oil and how much do you plan on using in your new compressor? These are the type of things that the AC guys know. You put the compressor on and all preformance,mechanical issues are on you.Last price I got on a comp from dealer was $600.00