Okay here we go. If someone could be an angel and help I would GREATLY appreciate it. My beetle has a rough start when I get gas. I have to push my foot on the gas in order for the car to start. Upon starting it blows black smoke out of the back. I have had the crank shaft censor & fuel filter replaced. A mechanic has also taken off the hose of the charcoal canister to see if gas was building up in it. However, it is dry. I’m worried it’s going to affect the rest of my car or make me replace my catalytic converter again. I just had this replaced two months ago but the car starting issue I’ve had for about 5 mths now. Any geniuses out there?
I have to admire VW enthusiasts. You’re a dedicated bunch. I was once one of your number, but I learned my lesson (the hard way).
Does the “check engine” light ever come on?
When you fill the gas tank, do you top it off, or do you stop filling when the filler nozzle clicks off? This matters, so be honest.
You said “replace the catalytic converter again.” Again? How many miles on this New Beetle? It’s unusual for a '99 model vehicle to have needed one catalytic converter replacement, much less two. But then, it is, after all, a VW.
You also say, “A mechanic has suggested . . .” Do you have a regular mechanic, and have you followed the VW maintenance schedule that came with your owner’s manual?
Again, be honest, please.
We can’t help you unless you give us all the information we need.
The engine is running rich; and, that should be tackled by a good mechanic.
If fuel pressure is too high, too much fuel will be forced into the engine. If the idle air control valve isn’t opening properly, the engine will run rich.
A rich running engine, or one misfiring, can cause the catalytic converter to overheat and fail from burning all that excess fuel.
You need to find a good mechanic. Keep looking.
You did not state if the Check Engine Light is illumimated and if the car has been scanned for codes or not. Your post makes it sound as if someone is just guessing and replacing parts.
(AutoZone, Checkers, etc. will scan the car for free and it only takes a couple of minutes)
You state it does this when you get gas but since the canister is dry I assume you’re not continuing to force gas into the tank after it initially clicks off.
Just offhand, it sounds like an injector is leaking off or the fuel pressure regulator is leaking. This could be easily verified with a fuel pressure test.
The car has 113k miles on it. I’ve only replaced the catalytic converter once so sorry about that. Sometimes I fill the tank half way and other times I fill it all the way. Normally I do try to get to the nearest whole dollar when it clicks. Yes I have a regular mechanic. I’ve been screwed alot by dealership mechanics actually so I’m hesitant on going back. I’ve also gotten it a tune up at 100k and get oil changes regularly. I am good to the car. If there is a problem with it, I try to get it repaired asap. Also, when starting it’s running rich.
What you’re saying sounds perfectly true, so you’re stating it’s the idle air control valve? Is that correct? It only runs rich when I get gas. If I start it otherwise, no smoke comes out of the back. Oddly though, sometimes it stalls out or has a rough start otherwise but normally it’s hot out when that happens. Does that mean anything when I say that? Would it still be the same issue? I would say it’s had a rough start 6 times within the last 5 months when I’m not getting gas. I don’t drive the car much since it’s starting doing this. Just to work which is 5 mins away.I really try to be good to my car and I’m scared it’s going to die because of this problem. Any more suggestions? I would appreciate your help. Thanks!!!
Yes the check engine light is still on and there was an evap code scanned. I don’t remember the code exactly though. After the gas clicks I do put a little more into the tank but not a great deal and I don’t always get a full tank of gas. So I would say no, I normally don’t fill my tank completely full.
I don’t believe it is the problem, but if you look around you are likely to find a warring sticker on your car warning you not to top off the tank when refueling, since it can damage the vent system, which appears to be what has happened and is triggering that CEL.
You should address that vent problem, which may be as simple as a new fuel cap or could be a few hundred dollars to repair damage to the vent system.
I have not heard of the vent system causing the type of problems you are reporting however.
When you get a CEL (Check Engine Light) it is an indication of a problem, even if the car runs fine. You really should fix any problem the CEL reports. If you start ignoring it, then you are not going to know when another more serious problem is about to happen if you don’t fix the second CEL that you will not know about since you are ignoring the light.
I would suggest getting the code(s) read again and posting them back here.
Hi skooter here I had the same problem with mine the problem is engine coolent air temperature sensor. The sensor has four prong plug two of the prongs should have a resistance of 1.5 to 2.0 k omes cold engine mine read a higher resitance then two 2.0 . I put a new one in works great. hope this helps see ya skooter