I had someone inspect the @^#^$%^%$^&^**&&&($#
out of it
they found no ^$%^#@$%^%^^ problem
with the job I did
So does anyone have a CLUE as what else the oil leak is from???
the oil leak is coming from the rubber seals which are not SEATING (SEATED) properly.
you are frustrated with it, but you have been gently prodded and suggested that you missed something.
undoubtedly you HAVE missed something. it usually is something that is pretty simple and easily overlooked.
a cracked block would most likely not leak at each sparkplug. since you have the oil migrating there in each plug well it stands to reason that the sealing of the common connection (the rubber seals) is not being done right.
well put,glad thats over
About a decade ago, I once relaced a valve cover gasket three times before I relized that it was the new-off-the-shelf valve cover that was warped. I was one angry, oil covered teenager, but at least I learned something.
well I give up
Im going to take the neon to a professional mechanic
hopefully I wont get ripped off
I really wish I could of gotten some help here
I have looked all over the net and everything points to the seals
I understand why everyone here keeps repeating and questioning
about the seals. I replaced them double checked had others check etc
There is something else wrong with the car. I wish someone could point me to what else even “might” be wrong with it.
if the seals are installed properly, and still leak, then i would suspect the valve cover itself, being tweaked, twisted or deformed.
did you use a new valve cover gasket when you re assembled it?
Well, you are understandably frustrated, but that is only going to hinder your investigation. Let your mind get away from it for a bit, and then try thinking your way through. I do not know any particulars about your engine, but…
I infer that each spark plug has a metal tube that is sealed to the cylinder head and extends upward to the valve cover, where it is sealed with a gasket. I guess the purpose of the tube is to keep the splashy oil from the rocker arms from getting onto the spark plug, or, (especially if the drain holes around the head are clogged?) to keep collected oil on the top of the head off the spark plug.
If oil is getting into a tube it must be coming from at least one of these: 1) the top of the valve cover where the plug wire enters; 2) from the top gasket leaking; 3) from the seal at the bottom; 4) from a hole/crack in the tube itself not likeley that all four tubes would fail); 5) from inside the cyl head around the spark plug.
Now, it’s possible that each tube has a different leak, but let’s start by assuming that there is a common mode failure.
You keep focusing on #5 (“cracked cyl head”), but that is not credible. First, it would not have happened to all four tubes. And second, I don’t think a crack near the spark plug would put OIL into the tube. Fuel/air mix, or combustion stuff, yes; but not oil.
It’s not #1 (from the outside) because you don’t have any oil on the top of the valve cover (do you?).
#4 (leak in the tube wall) is very unlikely because you would have to had failures in all four tubes – UNLESS you somehow bashed them when you were putting the valve cover back on, and even that is a little hard to believe.
#3 (bottom seal) is still suspect, even though you did not pull the tubes off. Maybe you gronched them when you were putting the valve cover on.
#2 is also still suspect, even though it is straightforward and you know what you are doing. I’m sure every one of us has done something dumb on an easy task – forgotten a washer, or put something in backwards, or mis-read some directions (easy to get into a rut and keep mis-reading them).
One test would be to remove the valve cover, and clean up the head around the bottom of one (or more) tube(s). Deliberately fill the tube(s) with oil, and watch to see where it leaks out.
Another test would be to clean out one (or more) tube(s) and let the engine sit for a good while with the oil on the cylinder head pooled as normal around the bottom of the tube. If any oil leaks into the tube, then the leak is at the bottom.
Again, the key is to think through it calmly. Take whatever steps work to calm yourself, but leave yourself menatally adept.
Good luck.
If you have a cracked head, oil on the outside of the plugs would be the least of your problems. This is a TEN YEAR OLD CAR! To just assume the cement at the bottom of the tubes is still good is your first mistake. The cement is probably brittle and cracked, but with just enough good surface adhesion left to seem in fine shape, as in holding the tube in place. If you want to fix this right, you may have to remove, clean, and re-cement the tubes back in.
The directions to replace the valve cover and re-cement the tubes is straight forward, and in the Haynes Manual, at least its in my Stratus Haynes manual. This is probably a good time to invest in one. BTW Loctite sealer No 271 is the cement needed.
Good luck
Holy, beat a dead horse. its common sense,let him take it to a tech,and find out. whew!
I just dug the manual out and did the research, I was surprised myself at how easy the directions are. Now in practice it could be harder then the direction would lead one to think. Thats for 2L SOHC engine only
not faulting you,sorry if you took it that way,but me and a few others have actually repaired this real problem,over and over again,the tube issue is VERY unlikely…
SOHC,DOHC all the same in that engine family
mmsamma
i think your suggestion; position is EXACTLY why some people come to this site.
your suggestion that the tubes are unlikely is EXACTLY why the OP has come back.
you stated that you (et al) have repaired this exact same item. what is the usual problem?
if the “tube issue” is not the problem… what is it? share. don’t hide. THAT is what this website is about.
Basic engine are the same but heads totally different http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chrysler_Neon_engine
i have found in the past cheap gaskets just will not seal,tolerance issues,Ive also in the past and present,dropped the feed tube seals when the cam cover was turned over(you have to use an anerobic sealer to hold the gaskets in place while you flip it over.and ive seen the cam cover cracked due to improper install,and depending where its cracked ,the oil will run and fill all of the plug holes.
same tubes was my point,1995 mitsubishi eclipse,neon,same tubes and many others, GS AND RS only
minizcule1
i hope i spelled it correctly!
now i hope you see the other issue coorelating to the sealing of the gasket.
there is much more than just the seal gaskets.
exactly how much of the top end did you get in to?
with the top end loosened you have to pay attention to the next “layer” of gaskets.
all the stars don’t mean #$%^.
direct co-orelation to the appropriate engine class, size mean everything.
this guy needs help to relate to THIS engine.
i mark the stars so i can find my conversation only,without hunting.the seals and procedure are one in the same.