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98 accord air sensor

Helllloooo! I am in need of anyone’s best (hopefully educated) guess of the replacement/labor cost of the following - I’m a single, unemployed gal in LA and the mechanics here can really take you for a ride, pun absolutely intended.

So, the eng. light’s on and I got it tested and here’s what the guy wrote down, verbatim:

Manufacturers Control
Auxiliary Emission Controls

And before that I was told it was the CO2 sensor, same thing? I know it sucks gas horribly…

My question is, what is the appropriate cost for this and have I damaged anything by driving with the bad part for 2 months?

Thank you!!! rubyshooe in lala land

PS! I forgot to mention, it is starting to “chug” a little now and then - sometimes a quick surge while gears are changing, eventhough my foot never moves -

I did a little research on google and it appears the problem is likely the canister vent shut valve (CVS). It appears mechanics replace the both canister and CVS when this happens due to the way they are configured in the car.

It’s a problem with the gas tank venting system. Emissions requirements dictate that the gas tank not vent to the atmosphere, so there are gadgets which allow air in, but no gas out. This has failed on your car. This isn’t the same thing as a CO2 sensor. That’s a separate problem and would be a different code I expect.

Do you sometimes overfill the gas tank? Do you top it off? Not such a good idea in modern cars. Overfilling can sometimes cause the venting system to fail. If you topped off the gas tank just prior to the light coming on, it might be worthwhile to keep the gas tank at 1/2 full or less and wait, maybe it will clear up on its own accord (no pun intended … lol).

I’d expect the bill to be around $500-$750 or so, parts and labor. Best of luck.

I always reset the fault codes after getting a CEL the first time. Have your mechanic reset the code and see if the CEL comes back. There are many things that can cause a code to set and it’s not always the fault of the component tied to the code. In my experience…it rarely is. The CEL system is a poorly designed system. You can thank the EPA for that.

P1456- small vapor leak in fuel tank side of evap. system. Most common cause is a loose gas cap. George… is totally correct about the vent valve and topping off the tank being bad, and can damage these parts. But always try the simplest thing 1st, make sure the gas cap seal looks good, they crack with age, and that it clicks at least 3 times when tightening. Do this, cancel code and see if it returns. If you do top off the tank, you probably damaged the vent valve, and they do replace the 2 together.
But, this is not a driveability issue and will not affect performance or gas mileage, and will not lead to further damage. It is safe to drive with this code, just annoying that the light is on.

Its not likely that this is from overfilling your gas tank, but still, you should not add any gas after the fuel nozzle shuts off the first time because it can cause other problems.

A loose or defective gas cap is the most likely problem, second most likely cause is one of the vent lines coming loose. This is not a serious problem and you can ignore it if you want, but you won’t pass California emissions until it is fixed.

so far, thank you kind sirs :slight_smile: