Does the owner’s manual say anything about it?
I continue to think you’ve got some misfires going on, so checking the diagnostic codes is the way to go. Some auto parts stores will read them as a customer service, free. Another idea, take a look at the electrical connection for each of the fuel injectors. Disconnect each one, check for bent pins, corrosion, then reconnect. You might get lucky, and it’s just a bad connection to one of the injectors. Theys a test tool called a “noid light” that’s used to make sure the injectors are being pulsed by the engine computer. That isn’t a common problem, but it does happen once in a while, and will cause misfires. Don’t discount what Tester is speculating, he’s a pro mechanic. I’m just a diy’er w/no experience w/your engine. Best of luck, keep us informed of your progress.
it was the timing i did everything i could to test everything else like sensors and fuel etc… took timing chain cover off and before i got it off i seen fragments of the tensioner in a corner when i started pulling it off. Got it off and there it was it was in a million pieces lol. So ive looked on line and read what i could find and, so far i guess as long as i line the marks up on tensioner with sprokets it will be in time. is that all there is to it ive done it on v8s before and roll it to tdc and then drop distributor in and all that. But on this its just put sprokets and chain on after tensioner and line up is that all there is to it is what im asking in short lol…
Good for you for getting the diagnoses completed. Best of luck on the timing chain tensioner repair.
hey ok had to redo my account. this is travis same with the car we are talking about. OK first thing it still aint running dont know what i did but valves where bent and changed them out and seated them properly. Now it wouldnt start cranked over then stopped acted like battery drained but it wasnt so it mustve hit valve so i stopped turning it over by key, i went out n turned it backwards by hand in case it was on a valve. my question is could timing be off i checked it by screwdriver in number 1 n it was at top dead center like that but think cams wrong when i have it at tdc and turn crank forward the intake valve starts opening is that right and seems like both valves are shut when it tops out or right before it. so could it still be 180 or 360 out???
Yes, it should on the intake stroke. Turn to the next TDC to be on the combustion stroke.
The crankshaft turns 2 times for every turn of the camshaft. when the crankshaft is at tdc you don’t know whether that is a compression stroke tdc, or an exhaust stroke tdc. To find the tdc of the compression stroke, listen for air whooshing out of the spark plug hole. That will only happen every other turn of the crankshaft. TDC - compression is followed by the downward power stroke, then the upward exhaust stroke, and finally the downward intake stroke (which is when the intake valve opens).
The more common problem isn’t that the valves are out of phase, but that the ignition system is firing on the exhaust stroke rather than the compression stroke, so check for that. If your sunfire uses a conventional distributor, the arm that goes round and round inside the cap should be pointing to the number 1 spark plug connection at the compression stroke tdc.
ok so i pretty much got it on wrong stroke and need to undo chain and turn motor by the crank? Or do i need to turn crank till hear air and then what should the valves be doing? right now it just cranks and acts like it hit the valves which i just changed. And no it doesnt have distributor only coils.
no distributor… so i got the timing wrong then ive only ever timed anything that had a distributor on it and could advance it or retard it if need be never done one of these.
when i turn crank no valve should open til the upstroke on exhaust then itll be timed right. so when i go to take it apart and change it i need to get cam to where its on combustion meaning no valves opening then exhaust opens so i got it a step behind right now i lined up marks on the intake stroke not combustion stroke is that right lol?
If the timing marks are correct, the timing is correct. Rotating the crank (only, not cam) one revolution just puts it back where it was.
If you undo the timing chain and turn the crankshaft you risk running the pistons into the valves and damaging them. Suggest you find someone who has experience in valve and ignition timing to help you out where you’re doing the work. Mechanics don’t try to time the valves by watching them as they turn the crank. They just align the timing marks on the crank pulley to the cam pulley. That times the valves correctly. The ignition system timing is set by a proper functioning crank position sensor and cam position sensor on an electronic distributor-less ignition system like yours.
we got it to fire up for a second then it started dumping fuel into the number 2 cylinder. took plugs out of all cylinders and number 2 had a 1/4 cup or more gushing out when we cranked it over. i unplugged that injector and still dumped it in the number 2 cylinder only others didnt shoot out any gas. my cousin timed it said he done it before and he lined up the marks when it came off the exhaust stoke pretty well watched as he turned it and waited for exhaust valve to close n lined up the marks.
Well, that’s the end of the exhaust stroke which is NOT the compression stroke. The marks must be aligned on the compression stroke of the #1 cylinder (closest to pulleys). On the compression stroke, NO valves are moving anywhere around top-dead-center.
to be honest i’m not able to determine if mine is like the one from this photo, however mine is also 2.2l and it also won’t start. been hoping for some answers here. thanks by the way for everything i found so far.
You really need to start your own thread . This one is about a Sunfire and your profile has a different vehicle. State as clear as you can what is happening when you try to start the vehicle so the people here can help you.
If you have way too much gas going into one particular cylinder, that could be caused either by the injector being turned on all the time by a faulty computer signal, or more likely the injector is broken in the stuck-on position. A mechanical fault inside the injector in other words. Unplugging the electrical connection to the injector won’t fix the second one. You’d have to replace the faulty injector.
ok thats whatim doing today is replacing the injector.
yes this is right… But when i lined it up on the intake stroke or what im saying is intake when i put cylinder to tdc and marks lined up the intake valve would start opening when i would turn crank forward. And my cousin timed it by going another turn and lining up marks and it was after the exhaust closed.
marks only line up when the intake valve is opening or the exhaust closes. wont line up when no cvalves move on compression. its got me all confused.
