Your confused ? It is time to find a real mechanic, tow it to them and have this done right.
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fixed the gas problem was an o-ring. must have fell off while putting it in. And for time to take it to a garage and have it done right thats not an option ive worked on cars my whole life just never on this particular motor and never not fixed one. It is the timing that got thrown out so bad got to re set it cam probably turned couple full rotations and crank also and this motor the ignition timing is off the crank and i know theres good mechanics on here that do theyâre own work and cant afford to take it in like me so thats why we reach out asking and using all info i wish i had the cash to take it to the garage and have it done but not a option. thanks for the info from everyone. if someone can find how to reâset the timing post it please.
Can you put your finger or thumb over the cylinder 1 spark plug hole? If so, you can tell when that cylinder is doing its compression stroke: youâll feel the pressure when the crankshaft is turned. You might need one person turning the crankshaft pulley (harmonic balancer) in the correct direction while you feel for pressure.
When cylinder 1 is at top dead center, the mark or notch on the crankshaft pulley should be at 12 oâclock. There should also be a mark on the camshaft, which should be at 12 oâclock.
If thereâs a distributor, the rotor should be pointing close to the position where the cylinder #1 spark plug wire plugs into the dist cap. If no distributor, someone else please chime in.
Thatâs how it is on my Honda and I think most cars would be about this way.
i think no distributor on this engine ?
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So would something attached to the crankshaft line up with a crank position sensor when cylinder #1 is at TDC?
no ditributor wish there was. now theres another problem im not getting spark on number 2 and 3 cylinder changed coil just in case and still no spark.
update update!!!
got it fixed and running fine so far so good. had to get a used injector at junkyard and fixed leaking problem. the timing was a full crank turn off so rotated motor one full turn til tdc and put chain back on and then it started right up not even 2 cranks. now its back to running good til it sits at red light to long or drive thru or stop at few stores it acts like its not getting gas or something if i can catch it right i can rev it up real quick n get it 2 or 3 grand n hold it there for few seconds maybe 15 or so and itll do fine if i can drive for a few miles no stopping. It did this before but changed a lot of stuff and hoped i fixed it. would crank sensor cause this or what else could it be? and doesnt help if spray starter fluid in it doesnt help to start just cranks and after 30 min it will start just fine and run any ideas? Thank you everyone for the help !!!
This only put the crank position back to where it was, so could not have accomplished anything. The injector was your problem.
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the guy that i talked to that has the video on you tube said it did said it just way these motors are i know it wouldnt crank over just crank n crank n not fire. Until i did it so i dont know why or what just that it started up n done fine drove it for a couple hours straight today and worked all the bugs out and done real good.
Glad you are back on the road with a purring sunfire there OP. I concur w post above, sounds like you had a faulty injector all along. When an injector fails and fills a cylinder w/gas it can take some running time before all that extra gas gets removed and allows the engine to run properly. maybe thatâs part of the explanation for why it didnât run perfectly immediately after replacing the injector. In any event, best of luck.
runs good now besides after running at idle for a while at the store or drive thru when i take off it sputters and cuts out and have to feather the pedal to get it to take gas and pick up idle and it smooths out. does it if start it and let it sit for 10 min or just go to town and run in store and come out it will start right up and go to pull out and it starts sputtering and cutting out does it everytime but i can start pedalling the gas pedal rapidly and it will eventually pick up til hits 2500rpm or so and starts smoothing out. Any ideas?
Yes, it is a 21 year old vehicle that was not much of vehicle new. It really has little value so nurse it to a car lot and replace it. Life is to short to let a vehicle drive you nuts.
Ok thought Iâd let everyone know and anyone with the same type off problem will know where to start looking. So the sputtering when I started the car and not wanting to rev up, and the dying after stopping at the store, and coming out and it stalling and not starting back til after 30mins or longer, turned out the fuel pump was bad wasnât out just bad would kick on n everything n let car run fine for while til it wouldnât come on at all. I replaced it with new one from OâReillyâs for $196.0 with lifetime warranty fixed problem so far only thing the fuel lines popped guess it was from rust n didnât have as much pressure with old one n now seems ok not missing or anything. So if this helps anyone here it is Iâm going to fix front fenders n try trading it in Iâve sunk $1,000.00 or more in it with new new ignition switch and ignition lock cylinder n rebuilding head and timing gears n chain n all the sensors all of them so it should run good but rather get sumn different thank you to all for helping me and sorry if puncuation is not perfect lol.
Now that youâve got it running well, why donât you just drive it for awhile?
And when the next major problem occurs, just drop it like a hot potato. Call the junkyard to come get it
If you trade it in on something else, it might appear youâre getting a lot of money for the Sunfire, but the dealer will just make it up somewhere else. Most dealers wonât be too excited to take a 1997 Sunfire in trade.
By the way, what is the next vehicle going to be?