97 4.3 cam?

Is it cpu or ecm controlled? Also what cam would be a good upgrade without a lot of internal work

Make and model would be useful.

Yes, different answer if you’re wanting more top end or towing grunt. But often just a cam swap won’t do a lot without additional mods to the intake and exhaust systems, they all work together.

It’s came out of a 97 blazer I want a mild cam until I can get better internals

So it is computer controlled?

A 1997 Blazed has fuel injection/computer control. What is the engine going into? If it is going in a race car or boat it doesn’t have to be computer controlled.

If you’re asking if the cam timing is computer controlled, I think it isn’t.

This should be a push rod motor and I suggest that you forget spending money on a cam, gasket set, and lifter set for what will likely be mild gains at best.

Depending upon the camshaft profile it’s possible to open up a can of worms with engine performance. With carbureted engines you can get away with a few things. With fuel injection a cam change can lead to more issues unless the cam has a very mild, near stock profile and if that’s the case then why bother.

Cam changes will work best with cylinder head work, exhaust work, and programming changes.
You also state the engine “came out of a 97 Blazer:” so I assume you’re installing the engine in something else. My suggestion would be to run a compression test and make sure that engine is in half decent shape before even considering doing anything to it.

The OP would probably be money and power ahead to sell the 4.3 and buy a 5.7, no mods needed.

It’s in a 1980 rx7 I’m wanting to stick with this 4.3 to see what all I can get out of it before swapping in another motor

That year 4.3 V6 is a Vortec motor putting out pretty good horsepower. The engine had a balance shaft and multi-point fuel injection and is rated at 180 to 200 HP from the factory. It has a roller cam with no cam phasers.

In a car that light, you can stick in a rather hot cam. Something on the order of 220 degrees at 0.050 inch lift with about 0.500 lift at the valve. You will need to change a lot of the valvetrain to make this work AND the computer won’t like this. It will require a re-tune by somebody who knows what they are doing and maybe some chassis dyno time. Or swap out an aftermarket computer or complete aftermarket fuel injection. I hope you have a strong budget. The cam kit alone is $700 plus. Figure $1200 and up for aftermarket computers.

I’d stick it in, find some headers that can be made to fit and have some fun with about 210 HP and that 260 ft-lbs of torque. More than that and you’ll start breaking stuff; like the rear-end.

It’s already in and it’s a fun car I’ve got a great deal on tunes I’ve got a buddy that does tunes I’ve also got a turbo to put on that goes up to 40psi but itd be a lot of work to get it to handle that much boost lol

You’re going to destroy that 4.3 V6 if you turbo it. No doubt about it, whatsoever

Since “It’s already in and it’s a fun car” leave the motor alone and enjoy the ride

Make sure your front suspension can handle the extra weight, because I’m quite certain that V6 is way heavier than the rotary engine it replaced

What transmission are you using, by the way?


My vote is to skip the turbocharger. That car has more than enough power with a naturally aspirated 4.3.

Some of the downside to turbocharger use.
Premium gasoline more than likely.
The risk of an engine cratering itself; especially if higher amounts of boost are used.
More frequent oil changes.
More complexity under the hood.
Additional expense involving injectors, programming, possible upgraded fuel pump, etc, etc.

If you do go with a turbocharger I would suggest that you keep it mild; say 5-10 pounds.
That 30 and 40 pounds of boost may sound impressive when everyone is standing around at the car show or at the bar swapping tall tales but can also cause major problems in a nano-second when something goes wrong.

Don’t forget that of you start pumping more air into the motor with a turbo you also need to consider the capacity of your injectors and whether your ECU will need to be remapped. Push in more air without considering these elements and you may just max out the injectors, drive the engine into “lean”, and end up with holes in your pistons.

As already implied, you can’t just bolt on new parts without considering what other changes need to be made to make them work successfully.

Even 15 psi is a lot for an engine not designed for a turbo.