@db4690 I would never take a car to a shop for diagnosis. I do sometimes take a car in for a repair when I am short of time but I always tell them exactly what I want done. I am the best available around here, especially when I have you experts to help me!
To further review: In the past year or less, besides the injectors, I have replaced the plugs, wires, rotor, cap, both heated oxygen sensors,fuel filter, MAF sensor,and EGR pressure sensor.
@LeRoy you must be in no hurry to get the Taurus running again.
No offense.
By the way, we’re always happy to offer advice.
I still think you need to step back and take a deep breath. Telling us what parts have been replaced doesn’t provide much to work with and the odds of anything on that list causing a no-start are very, very slim.
You state that you got a code for a failure of the fuel pump primary circuit. These cars use one module to provide power to the fuel pump, cooling fan, A/C, etc. It’s called an ICRM or CCRM depending on the year but it’s basically a big box of relays.
The first thing to do is make sure the 50 amp cooling fan fuse is good as that is the power source for the Box O’Relays. The main power lead to that module should be black and orange and should have power even when the key is off.
A failed or dragging cooling fan can overheat the fuse which then blows and no power to the module which then interrupts the fuel pump primary circuit…etc, etc.
You can also try grounding that tan/green connector by the DTC connector as a test method. If the engine runs this way then the problem is not likely related to the module I mentioned.
This can be walked through but it’s going to require a bit of input from you.
@ LeRoy … “fuel pump relay primary circuit failure” might not mean the relay is broke. It may be something else in that circuit which is failing. The fuel pump might still be pumping, but there could be something else not working which is part of that circuit. I wouldn’t dismiss this code as easily as you seem to be doing. The codes are there to help you isolate the problem.
BTW, I think it is great you are going to solve this problem yourself, come hell or high water. We need more folks like you in America! Good on you.
Eliminating as many things as possible that you know are not causing the problem is one way I usually procede with this kind of problem. If there’s a possibility it might be the engine cooling fan, I’ll unplug it, and see if it will start that way. etc. I do think you need accesses to have the resources you need. A proper fuel pressure guage which fits the engine’s fuel guage port, and a electrical schematic at least. Access to a shop manual or All Data would prove helpful too. There’s a good chance your local public library may these, including the schematics. Best of luck.
Also @LeRoy, the Ford Dealership service dept may be able to tell you the meaning of the 4 digit code. Give them a phone call. Doesn’t hurt to ask. Also, have your tried to Google that code?
@GeorgeSanJose many people throw parts at a problem before fixing it. That can get pretty expensive after awhile.
@db4690 … there are different philosophies on this I guess. Mine is similar to yours. But there is merit in LeRoy’s too. More than one philosophy will often work.
Like years ago I was driving out in the desert on a 4WD road in my Ford truck, a remote area, but it was spring so spring-break-students were also there-a-bouts, partying, etc. Anyway I came around the corner, the road hugging the side of a steep hill, and there was a big rock in the middle of the road. It had rolled down from above, and now blocking the road. My companion and I, we pushed, but it was too heavy for the two of us to move.
I was trying to think of ways out of this problem, maybe moving other rocks, cutting brush, on the side of the road to make enough room to go around it, or building a ramp by piling up dirt on both sides and going over it. Seemed like a lot of work though. My friend who was with me said “hey, we just passed some of those spring-break campers back there 1/2 mile back. Let’s just go back, offer up some beers, and ask them to help us push the rock off the road.” Voila, rock gone.
@GeorgeSanJose I’m not sure that was a good example. You were only out a case of beer, NOT several hundred dollars in parts and weeks without a running car.
@GeorgeSanJose I’ll add that I also would have gladly bought beer for the college students in exchange for pushing the boulder off the road.
@GeorgeSanJose–my son did something like what you did. He was on an internship in Appalachian country and the narrow road was blocked by a mudslide. As he was contemplating what to do, a car came along in the other direction. Neither driver could get to his destination. My son introduced himself to the other motorist and they swapped cars. My son got to town and the other motorist got home. When my son returned, the mudslide was cleared and he drove to the other motorist’s house and they swapped cars back again.
@ok4450: I have another car.
@Tester: When I try to start the engine now, it runs slowly for three seconds.
@George San Jose: I have a service manual and the big loose leaf emission manual. I could not find the 6636 code on the computer.
@db4690: Each of the many parts I have installed has improved engine performance until the injectors. That is what makes me think I did something specifically wrong when I installed the injectors or the EGR pressure sensor!
@LeRoy is there an antitheft LED flashing when you try to start the car?
Do you have another key to try?
The fact that it runs for 3 seconds could mean the PCM is shutting off the fuel because it sees an "unauthorized starting attempt"
If you truly believe the EGR has anything to do with your problem, temporarily disable it.
Look in the electrical wiring diagrams and verify that the injectors are hooked up to the right connectors.
Get your test light out and make sure EVERY SINGLE FUSE is good.
Another possibility is a bad crank sensor, but that often sets a code.
Did you ever hook up that fuel pressure gauge?
The problem be with a faulty ignition module. That’s that plastic component mounted on the side of distributor.
The ignition module functions in two modes. These are the start and run modes. When starting the engine, the ignition module goes into the start mode. This allows full battery voltage to the coil. Once the engine starts and ignition switch goes into the run position, the ignition module goes into the run mode. The ignition module then steps the voltage down to the coil because if the coil see’s the 14.5 volts from the charging system it’ll burn up the coil. So the problem might be that the ignition module is functioning in the start mode but failing in the run mode.
Tester
@Tester you’re right. I forgot this car is old enough to have one of those.
@LeRoy if you’re going this route, make sure to get a high quality part.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=385940&cc=1138889
The electronics on these cars are very simple but at this point there is still not enough info provided to be able to make even a rough guess.
Seeing as how there is a code for an interrupted fuel pump primary circuit, it seems to me that the black/orange wire along with the pink/black at the CCRM should be checked for power along with the trunk mounted inertia switch.
Leroy, the car should run at least marginally if it has spark and fuel. Have you confirmed a decent spark at each spark plug? And that the spark continues past the point-in-time where the cars stops running after being cranked?
Re: confirming fuel. I’m not familar w/the particulars of this car, but is it possible – given the way the injectors are configured – to pull all the injectors from the intake manifold and put them each in a separate container (like a plastic bottle) and verify each of them is spraying fuel, and the same amount for each injector? I did that with a late 70’s VW Rabbit one time, to verify the injectors were actually spraying fuel. They weren’t, and this was the clue that lead me to the solution – in that particular case, a clogged fuel distributor.
@GeorgeSanJose @LeRoy already replaced all the injectors. Taking them out again seems counterproductive to me. Besides, it wouldn’t tell you much if the engine only runs for 3 seconds.
There are more efficient ways to test injectors. It’s called injector balance testing. This car doesn’t have a fuel distributor. Only CIS cars and diesel cars have those. I’ve worked on both, and this car doesn’t fall into either category.