@db4690: I have no anti-theft system. I disabled the EGR valve and thre was no change. I could not have connected the wrong cable to an injector, I did them one at a time and the wire length would not allow a mistake. The fuel pressure with the ignition switch only is 30 pounds, the service manual calls for 37-43. Is 30 enough to run the engine?
@ok4450: I can hear the fuel pump running!
@LeRoy your fuel pressure is too low. You may have a faulty pump or regulator. I believe the low fuel pressure may be your main/only problem.
Leroy … I’m assuming you’ve already verified your injectors are visually spraying fuel and you have visually confirmed spark, all during cranking. I realize you can’t do this after cranking because the engine isn’t starting.
re rail fuel pressure: A good guess would be about 20% reduced injector flow if rail pressure is 30 rather than 40 as spec’d.
http://www.csgnetwork.com/fiflowcalc.html
At idle there is a big vacuum in the intake manifold which should help suck fuel through the injectors. Provided your engine compression is ok, I expect it should still idle (probably a rough idle likely ending in a stall) with a rail pressure of 30. I don’t think the low rail pressure is what is causing it not to start. More likely the injectors aren’t getting the proper electronic pulses which cause them to open up and inject fuel.
The fact that it seems to start, then dies makes me think either you are either (1) loosing spark after chaning from “start” to “run”, or (2) the fuel injectors are not spraying fuel after changing from “start” to “run”.
re (1): As Tester says above, the spark is created differently during cranking than during running. Perhaps there is something wrong with that. It sparks during cranking, but when it tries to start running, the ignition electronics isn’t making the transition and loosing spark.
re (2): My early 90’s Corolla has a gadget called a cold start injector. This is not common on newer cars. But since yours is a 95, look in your manual to see if your Taurus has a cold start injector. What it does is inject extra fuel into the common intake manifold to enrich the mixture, but only during cranking, through a 5th injector. It’s a sort of choke. If your car has this feature, maybe the 5th injector is working ok, but when you turn the key from “start” to “run”, the 5th injectors stops, and the other 4 – the main ones – are not taking up the slack. I’ve heard of driveway mechanics who hook up their timing light clamp on to the wire that goes to an injector, to see if that wire is being activated. If the timing light flashes, it means there are pulses going to the injector. You might try that, see if timing pulses are going to the injector wires after the keyis turned from “start” to “run”.
I’m really hoping to find out what this is. Is there any chance one or more of the injectors are bad such as sticking open? When I worked in the can plant during school, the mechanics there beat into my head to always go back and check your work first when something doesn’t work. I’m almost to the point of putting the old injectors back in or having the new ones tested.
It seems me that 30 pounds of fuel pressure should allow the engine to run, even if slowly. I do have new injectors which should require less pressure. This is driveway mechanic logic! So, today I checked the resistance of the coil. My Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis 1995 Service Manual says to measure the resistance of the ignition coil wire, replace if greater than 7000 ohms. It is 7349. It doesn’t say how much I can get away with over 7000 to allow it to just run. Should I replace the coil at 7349?
@LeRoy you said the coil wire resistance is out of spec, but you want to “replace the coil at 7349”
I’m assuming you want to replace the coil wire . . .
Replace the entire spark plug wire set, not just one wire, if in doubt.
@db4690 I have replaced all the wires. I probably didn’t say it right but the book says the resistance of the coil should be 7,000 or less. It is 7,349. Is this high enough that I should replace the coil?
@LeRoy I would replace it, but I’m 50-50 as to whether that alone will fix your problem.
Is the coil out of specs?
Yes
Should you replace it?
Yes
Will that fix the no start?
I don’t know
What about that ignition control module that the other guys mentioned?