94 chysler lebaron cuts off while driving is has a 3.0L

the car started cutting off yesterday when driving back home it cut off and every time after that it started to cut off it drives for like a block then cuts off sometimes it goes longer then cuts off i tried to stay around 35 if i floored it it would cut off or come to a stop it would cut off when i tried to go again, it idles 1 line above the 0 on the rpm Gauge today i fixed a couple very small antifreeze leak on it and tried to drive it again and it drove about a block in a half and cut off again it doesn’t start right back up either i usually wait a minute or 2 then try it again then it starts after a couple of tries does not start easy though. if i hod the gas a at a stop to about 1000 rpm then i can go but it will still cut off i don’t see any vacuum leaks or anything has all fluids what could this b thanks in advance

at idle when i give it gas to fast it cuts off or tries to and the idle was fine before this problem started so that cancels out the idle being to low right

it idle’s almost at 0 it starts hire but slowly goes down to this point

You’re very unlikely to be able to see a vacuum leak. Perhaps the best method of finding them is to spray ether (starter fluid) around suspect areas. If you hit a vacuum leak, the leak will draw the ether in and the engine revs will temporarily increase. The technical way to check is using a vacuum gage.

You likely either have a very weak and/or intermittant spark or you have a dying fuel pump. Fuel pump pressure is easy to check, and you don’t even need the engine running just the key in ON, and it’s definitive. If the pump is dying the pressure will be low.

An intermittant spark is tougher. There are a number of possibilities, but the first place to look is the coil pack.

If you have a trusted mechanic, just take it in and let him do the diagnosis.

yea i dont think its a vacuum leak becouse its noy idling high, but im going to check the fuel pressure i have a fuel guage on my car ill take it off and put it on the other car and ill let u no thanks, ill try and check the spark after, thank u for the help

I know those 3.0 liter mitsu engines are notorious for crankshaft position sensor issues…among other things.

Turn your ignition key on and off 3 times and leave in the on position.

A light on your dash will blink on and off to give you a two digit trouble code. For example one blink followed by two blinks is a code 12 and indicates that the battery has been disconnected or had the voltage drop low in the last 30 starts.

the codes run 11 thru 63. I would guess you are going to see code 13,14, or 15 which are all related to the MAP sensor.

it blinks once then 2 fast ones. but after that it has diffrent blinks do i need to get those to, but the first one was 12

ok i got a 12 a 33 a 32 a 33 then a 55 i no the 55 means that there are no more codes.

Here is a page with a list of Chrysler OBD-I codes.

I would like to help more but I can’t make head nor tail out of your posts.

Ed B.

does anyone no what this piece is called and would it couse the car to act like that it connect to the egr valve and has a electrical plug outlet i pulled the plug out and one of the prongs inside was rusted off and one of the wire on the harness was missing the end

I don’t think you can buy this separately , it is part of the egr valvef, just call a parts store, or look one up online. They are $60 - $70 at Rock Auto plus shipping.

The part on the left is the EGR vacuum solenoid and the part on the right is the EGR valve itself.

If the valve is sticking open or being held open the engine will try to stall so you’re on the right track.

im going to try and get both parts and redo the end of the wire harnessb in the morning and see what that does hopefully that fixes it. ill let yall no tomarrow, and thanks for all the help

i got another egr and the silenoid and the piece of harness i needed. and i also got a used fuel pump just in case but i do here the fuel pump kicking on everytime the key was turned to the on position does these mean it is good. and i did see coolent leaking it looks like its coming from the water pump, but i dont think this will couse my problems, im going to change the rotor and cap plugs and wires to see what this does

hi i just wanted to let u no i just fixed it it was the egr valve, plus the silenoid wasnt working becouse the pin was broken inside but the egr was stuck. it idles normal now but still has a knock on the left side towards the alternator and i think the water pump is leaking becouse i found anifreeze below it, but thanks for all your help