94 Chrysler lebaron 3.0L rotor not turning

You also have a crankshaft seal and two camshaft seals, one for each camshaft. Yours do appear to be leaking. You have to remove the timing belt pulleys to access these seals, but replacing them will ensure your timing belt will not get contaminated with oil and fail before its time.

A note about that water pump: there is a tube behind it that carries coolant from one end of the engine to the other. It is sealed with an O-ring at each end. While I do normally recommend replacing the water pump with a timing belt job, you may want to think about this one if the water pump appears to be okay. It is very easy to create a new coolant leak at either end of that tube when you remove and reinstall the water pump. If this happens, it means the upper and lower intake plenums have to come off to access the other side of that tube to replace the O-rings. This means more downtime and more parts to purchase. It is entirely up to you as to whether you want to tackle that probability for more work. I would never recommend skipping the water pump on an interference engine, but this is a non-interference engine, the timing belt is pretty easy to replace on it, and we are talking about possibly incurring a lot of extra work that doesn’t really need to be done. If time and money are limited, you may want to consider skipping the water pump at this time since doing it in this case could result in having to take more stuff apart and buying more parts to finish the job. It’s not too difficult to do, just time consuming. Just a little caveat I happened to think of at this moment. This, of course, does not apply if the water pump caused the timing belt to fail, or there is already an obvious need for a new water pump.

i did see antifreeze on the ground of the water pump side of the car a couple days ago i think it coming from the water pump other parts were dry, i do have the new pump at this time but i still have to get those camshaft seals theres 3 right 2 at the top 1 at the bottom. and how would i no if the opposite side of the tube leakes. i looked up timing cover gaskets at auto zone do i need these also.

and my hermonic balancer slide off by hand is that ok, no force or puller needed

If the water pump is leaking, then it needs to be replaced. The leak could very well be what took out the timing belt. Hopefully, that coolant tube will just stay in place at the other end. I had one come out with the water pump on one occasion and could not get it to go back together right. Ended up pinching the O-ring on the back of the engine and had to pull the intake to get to it. If this happens to you, try reassembling it with petroleum jelly or something similar (I used dielectric grease) on the end of the tube and hope for the best. Install the new water pump and button up the coolant hoses before installing the timing belt (if you have a leak, you may need to remove the water pump again to fix the leak). Fill it with coolant, pressure test it, and hope for the best. Auto parts stores usually have pressure testers for their loan-a-tool program, so it won’t cost you in the long run if you don’t want to spend money on it.

You will need two camshaft seals and one crankshaft seal. There is a difference. You do not have to replace the timing cover gaskets if you don’t want to spend the money on them. They do not have to contain any fluids, so as long as you reinstall the covers, that will be good enough.

It is good that your harmonic balancer slid off by hand. It is supposed to on this engine. Sometimes they freeze and can be a pain to remove, but it is good that it came off easily. That definitely makes the job go more easily.

thank u very much for the help im going to go at it again tonight, ill keep u updated, and post a pic of progress.

ok i got the pump off and the old gasket, in the package for the new water pump gasket theres a o ring does that go in the center part (hers a pix) and i no where the other gasket goes but theres also another gasket that came in the pack i dont no where it goes i dont think it gets used.and do u no any tricks for gettting off the upper crank pullies becouse they just turn and i cant find a way to stop it.

the o ring goes in the big center hole right in the 2nd grove right

ok i found out that there was another part to the pump its a back plate there with a gasket behind it and behind that is the tube with the o ring on it ill post pics. and a website of(chiltons auto repair book on the 3.0L engines)

http://books.google.com/books?id=myKJTE_3YrAC&pg=SA1-PA8&lpg=SA1-PA8&dq=3.0L+water+pump+o+ring&source=bl&ots=H9Dojpchkq&sig=7N1h7xwR-xbcGAumNdJaUx_jGzU&hl=en&ei=EQApTYjjNYP-nAe2xo2cAQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=13&ved=0CG0Q6AEwDA#v=onepage&q=3.0L%20water%20pump%20o%20ring&f=false

1 mor pic

i just wanted to tell u guy’s i fixed it, thanks for all the help, it runs even better now

Great! Thank you for keeping us posted till the end. That is uncommon on this site, and it’s nice to know the end result of things.