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4 year old tire going bad I think

MFG date 0412, maybe 30k miles, Get a noise at highway speeds like sticky tar on a spot, thought a front wheel bearing was going bad, after tire rotation sound is from the rear. So I am thinking a tire is going bad, no obvious signs of belt separation, but signs of dry rot. How does one approach the situation, or do I just let it go? Curious pattern on sidewall? Picture was taken after 50 mile road trip on the interstate. Note cracks inside first rib!

That tire is toast no matter what kind of internal damage caused its final demise. Its already dry rot cracking as well as tread depth worn out and should just be replaced.



Check the other tires, any that are even close to that one need to be replaced also. This is dangerous.

Agree; no way should you risk driving on these tires any further. Get them changed.

Tread depth is a hair over 4 mm. Looking to get some satisfaction from manufacturer I think for a 4 year old 30k mile tire with 60k warantee.

Soooooo have you gone back to the dealer you bought the tires from? What did they say?

Most of the tire is at 4/32, the outside edge is at less than 2.

Sooo your camber is out of adjustment one one axle or both if all 4 are worn to 2 mm on the outers only.

Either way, that tire is junk. What brand and model tire?

I’ve had this happen at about 4 years on Cooper tires many years ago. Nothing else so far.

I’ve had un-driveable tires with still-legal tread at 3 years of age from rubber hardening on Goodyears and Pirellis but not for some years.

BF goodrich long trail ta tour tires, just had an alignment done ast week with new struts, dealer says the tires have to go to the factory for warranty coverage, but don’t have high hopes. New tires Thursday, going back to michelins. all the tires look pretty much the same.

Well, at least the wear is even…

@Barkydog Even if you’ve recently had an alignment, the actual numbers matter. Assuming your vehicle alignment wasn’t the obvious cause of the wear, the car could be in alignment but not really “right” for you.

If your alignment specs call for, say a range of +0.5 to -0.25 degrees camber on one axle, your vehicle would be “in spec” at +0.5 degrees. If your driving is mostly twisty roads and you dive-bomb entrance ramps like A.J. Foyt, that amount of camber would wear your tires on the outside more than the inside. The factory gives a range because of build tolerances but you’d get better tire life at 0 or -0.25 degrees. Even if your car doesn’t have an adjustment for camber, slop in the bolt holes can sometimes be used to at least reduce the camber by as much as 0.5 degrees.

Same for toe-in. What might be in spec may be a bit too much for your driving. A good alignment guy can help this a lot, but not for a $49 flat rate job. It will take more time and charge accordingly.

So I got the new tires today, went back to Michelins, now the steering slop was minimal, but down to none, just driving it a little it feels like I am on silk slippers, they did an alignment check, all within specs, not centered on specs as I would wish, but what does it really mean?
Left front camber -0.6 caster 3.2 toe -.02
Right front camber -0.5 caster 3.9 toe 0.0

Front total toe -0.02 Steer ahead -0.01

Left rear camber -0.1 toe -0.10
Right rear camber -0.3 toe 0,05

Total toe -0.05
Thrust angle -0.07

03 trailblazer 176k miles

I tend to get wear patterns on the front tires like that if my truck’s toe isn’t adjusted correctly. If you’re driving a tall, top heavy vehicle like an SUV, that can cause that wear pattern too. An alignment won’t likely fix it in that case. Just the weight of the vehicle’s body causes a big lean to the outside during a turn.