2020 Chrysler Pacifa Touring

In December 30, 2024, we bought a used 2020 Chrysler Pacifica with 22,500 miles ( out of warranty) and last few weeks I noticed that car. one time had difficulties to start ( nothing major but I felt it) . Then this week on Thursday morning after vehicle sat inside the garage for three days, lights came on but it would not turn on. Had it jumped, drove it to do my errands, put in about 35 miles before I took it to autozone to see if the battery was dying. They checked it and nothing came up, that it was good and they also did other test with their system that connects to the battery and all is well. I stared the van Friday to check and it came on with no issues. This afternoon try to start it to go to the store and same thing. Lights came on as normal, but it the engine did not turn. I jumped it again and after a few minutes, I was able to start the vehicle.

What could be the issues ?

What does it do when not starting?? Crank no start, click but no crank, nothing-no sounds only dash lights (assuming, you just said lights)??

Check for loose (should NOT be able to twist/move the terminal ends) battery cable ends and to see if any corrosion…

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Need better / more complete info.

They load tested the battery? “Nothing came up” is a weird way to put it. The battery passed a load test? How old is the battery?

I’m guessing that means a charging system check? They checked the alternator?

What was it doing in the “few minutes”?

Other than still worrying about the battery (if it’s original, then it’s near the end of its life and Autozone stores tend not to be real technicians), I’d be making sure that the terminal connections at the battery and starter are nice and clean and tight. “Looking” clean, if they do, isn’t good enough. A good wire brushing/sanding is in order no matter what.

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It does not click or turn on - the lights come on like normal - and the battery is the original. Hoping is just the battery.

When I connected to jump start for a few minutes - it’s doesn’t start right away and keep trying 2-3 times and then it turns.

If is not connected to another car to jump start, it doesn’t turn but lights come on.

And no they did not check the alternator

Did you check the battery cable ends???

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Do you have a check engine light on when it starts and runs?

It seems like something is draining your battery (parasitic drain)
here are a few possibilities to check.

MC-10212300-9999.pdf (nhtsa.gov)

MC-10227721-9999.pdf (nhtsa.gov)

What is Upward Basketball (nhtsa.gov)

No check engine or anything unusual -
Will try tomorrow in the morning and take a few pictures before I started and see

I am no car expert but the cables seems fine

  • thanks for the the replies

You don’t need to be an expert to see if they move/twist using some force or not… Use your hands as well as your eyes…

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“cables seem fine” means nothing at all. This has all the marks of bad terminal connections.

Do you happen to own a voltmeter and know how to use it?

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You should have bought a new battery while you were at the auto parts store. Those handheld battery testers are unreliable, especially after driving the vehicle for an hour. I have had to leave batteries at rest for an hour to get a “failing report” to process the warranty repair.

Lights? The warning lights in the gauge cluster? That indicates the ignition is on, however the battery may not have enough power to start the engine.

Regardless of what the engineer behind the az counter told you, a weak battery cannot hold a charge over night and needs to be replaced. But put a volt meter on the system ($10 anywhere) and make sure the alternator is performing. Also you can check and clean all the connections, but just change the battery. Batteries from the factory may not be all that good and could have been sitting around a while.

Gm - heading to services and trying to start the van and well, lights come on and ( makes no clicking sound) and engine won’t turn on.-

I vote for a new battery as first step. Read the information posted by Weekend-Warrior.
To have those potential problems investigated expect to pay a diagnostic fee. Note that some of the test require electrical systems to go to “sleep” before testing, Autozone is not going to do that.
Just me, but I would purchase the battery from my regular mechanic if they can perform the tests. But more likely I would replace the battery and see if the problem persists.

Just a note. I have a 2020 (different brand) car that I bought new in May 2021, the last of the holdover 2020s just before prices skyrocketed.
No electrical problems at all but had the battery proactively replaced last month. Living in the south I replace batteries every 3-4 years.

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I took it back to another autozone - they did their routine check for battery , alternator and starter and all good - they recommended before buying a new battery to take to the Chrysler dealership and get a diagnostic check. I don’t know how old the current battery is, but is sure looks new and not 4 years old.

Do I spend $240+ for a new battery and it does not solve the problem or do I pay $100 for a diognostic fee ? Wish I had millions to throw away money.

OK, it is obvious that your are not able to solve this yourself. Not everyone can be a vehicle mechanic but you need a good shop. It does not have to be a dealer . I doubt it the diagnostic fee will only be 100.00 and check prices because you should be able to get a new battery for less than 240.00 .

Autozone will replace a battery but I don’t think they are allowed to clean the battery connectors.

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You can find out how old that battery actually is by looking for the date code that can be found on it:

That being said, if it really is 4 years old, I would suggest that you simply go ahead and replace it. Even if that doesn’t solve the starting problem, proactively replacing it at the 4 year point is a good idea.

What is 650 CCA in a battery ? I am looking online and when I input the car info on autozone it recommends 750cc?

Can’t tell what year is the battery