“P06A7 Sensor reference voltage “B” circuit range/performance.”
There may be a loss of the 5 volt reference signal to the sensors that are dropping out. Inspect the engine wiring harness for chaffing or cracked wires.
Also, I am having difficulty following the TPS discussion, there is only one throttle plate sensor value shown, nothing to compare with. The TPS is on the throttle body, the accelerator pedal is in the driver’s compartment.
Re MAP sensor output
I expect the diagnosis will require a tech experienced in how the MAP data is reported on this car. For example in your post 8 above, it shows 11.5 in Hg. I presume this is w/ engine running, near idle rpm. Since ambient air pressure is appx 31.5 in Hg, this would mean the intake manifold is appx -20 in Hg, which is more or less correct for idle w/no turbo boost. But in your post 3 above, it reads 0.0 in Hg with the engine not running. That’s inconsistent with your post 8, b/c with no vacuum ( engine is not running), the intake manifold (absolute pressure) should be appx ambient, 31.5 in Hg, not 0.0. This could be the reason for the p0106 & p0107. A malfunctioning input for the MAP would confuse the engine computer to no end. It may be working sometimes, and not others. You might want to take a close look at the map’s electrical connector . See any bent or corroded pins? On my Corolla, for the MAP to work correctly
- It must receive a constant reference voltage from the ECM.
- It must have a leak free connection to the intake manifold
- Its internal diaphragm must hold vacuuum
- It must be properly grounded
- It must connect its reference input, output signal, and ground to the ECM.
Your best bet it probably to hire a pro to do the diagnosis, then you can do the suggested repairs yourself if you like. Best of luck.
Check to see if you have a voltage drop between the engine and body, not just battery to body. Should be < 0.1V.
Agreed with @Nevada_545. Back probe the blu/wht wire at each sensor connector to check for 5V. You can check wiring continuity by measuring resistance between pin 6 on the ECM connector and blue/wht wires on the sensor connectors. Should be 0 Ω. If it’s in limp mode with no TPS code, then it’s a battery voltage issue or a bad ECM. AFAIK, the cam, turbo boost, O2, and MAP codes on their own won’t put the engine into limp mode.
Decided to take it into a shop because I was in over my head. Shop found there was oil in the harness where it connects to the ECM. Said he’s seen it before. Somehow oil weeps up from one or more of the sending units up the wire. They cleaned it thoroughly and added dielectric at the connection, but thinks it will happen again.
Thanks for the update. Suggest to mark your post as the “solution”. Helps other posters here w/similar problems. . Click the “solution” icon at the bottom. Liquids contaminating electrical connections , not an unusual problem w/modern cars. . Usually the problem isn’t oil though.
The leaking oil control solenoid(s) or oil pressure sending unit should have been replaced, was that the solution?
Or is the solution;
1 Like
Yes, addressing the source of the leak seems a critical task . The oil flows downhill, so it sort of surprises me that the oil pressure sender is located above the ECM. Just curious, where is the ECM located on this car? It is located inside the passenger compartment near the manual trans gear shift lever on my car.
Edit: From what i can tell the ECM appears to be located near the shock/strut top mount, inside the engine compartment on this car. Passenger side, inner fender I think At least that’s what it looks like on the 2.5L non-turbo FWD version. Seems like a leak from the camshaft area might make its way to the ECM connector, but a leak from the oil pressure sender to the ECM connector seems less likely.
I clearly remember cars where atf would work its way through the harness, from the automatic transmission all the way to the control module
It’s uncommon, but professional mechanics see these things from time to time 
1 Like
Or, transmission fluid being forced up the speedometer cable into the instrument cluster.
“Hey! Where did this oil on my shoes come from?”
Tester
1 Like
It doesn’t matter where the leak originates, the wire becomes a conduit for the oil. The oil can “wick” up the wire or be forced by pressure from an oil pressure sending unit, the part does have the word pressure in its name.
The next question will be “why doesn’t the oil just drip on the floor like it did in 1972?”
There is a seal inside the connector to keep moisture out, it also contains some of the oil that leaks from the sensor.
Just like the seal at the end of the speedometer cable would fail where it connects into the transmission and allow fluid up the cable.
Tester
George’s vehicles don’t have control modules
Thus, he doesn’t have a reference point to understand the concept of fluid traveling through a wiring harness and damaging a control module
Why do I have to occasionally access the Corolla’s ECM then?
I’m with all of you. Don’t love not fixing the symptom and not ready to call it quits. After reading what you all said, got to thinking if the wire is wicking from somehwere to the ECM. After poking around and found this :
I’ve cleaned it out but still had some oil in it. Looking on Mitchell, it’s the variable cam timing oil control solenoid intake. It’s about 15" from the ECM, so could potentially push oil thru the harness?
Yes it could, keep an eye on it, if it does it again then follow the wires to see if the oil is making it to the ecm, might be time to replace the leaking solenoid before it gets worse… just saying…
Could still be another issue also…
