Yes, I’m the idiot who drove around with the idiot light on for over a year. Even borrowed a code reader and read the code. Still the same code that was read @ AutoZone today when I had to hold my foot on the gas the whole way there to keep the car running. Think the MAP sensor finally went kaput. Replaced the MAP sensor (following the advice of the car’s all knowing computer) and now she still won’t keep running without my foot on the pedal. Left the battery unplugged for 20 min. to see if it would help her reset and now she’s chugging to stay going even with my foot on the pedal. No new codes are showing up. What next? Check the plugs? Wires to the MAP sensor? What’s most likely?
Post the codes here so we have an idea where to start. The regular techies here have all the codes.
P0107 is what i remember it to be (MAP circuit input low). However the gentleman @ AutoZone said that the code reader was showing the code twice. Will the computer actually kick out the same code twice? So I’m wondering if it was actually giving him another MAP code along with the 107 possibly a P0108 as well. I think I may have gotten a P0108 code also when i read the code myself, but can’t remember for sure.
NOW… for what happened today. As i said i replaced the MAP sensor yesterday after which the car would not start. I returned to the car today after letting it sit overnight with the battery unhooked. We reconnected the battery and the car turned right over and everything seemed to be firing just fine, just as it ran before i was having the problem. I let it run for a few minutes and then drove 15 minutes to my house with no event until i was about 100 feet from my ally when the car died and i coasted into the ally as far as i could and the car again would not keep running after turning over. After this i again let the car sit for a few hours and returned to it with my friend who is more car savvy than I. The car started and kept running on it’s own with a bit of sputtering and smoke out the tailpipe. After a minute or two of the sputtering it jumped up a couple of hundred RPM’s on it’s own and then settled into a steady idle at around 1000-1100 RPM’s, pretty much where it always has idled. We let it run for a bit with no other changes and everything seemed dandy. We then went for a ride around the neighborhood and everything was going great until the temperature gauge got to a little over 200 degrees and then it began to sputter again and died, after which it again would not start. We left the car as I took the dogs for a walk and then returned and was able to keep it running with my foot on the gas and return it the two blocks back to my house and coast it into it’s parking spot. So in effect what i found was that once the car is warm, it no longer wants to run. My buddy suggested that it may be the oxygen sensor which he said is somewhat temperature dependent, but didn’t want to have me spend a hundred bucks on a hunch. So that’s where we are now. If it is the oxygen sensor, shouldn’t it have kicked out another code? The check engine light again has not turned back on. My friend was also wondering if there is something more serious going on with the computer since the check engine light was on for so long with no problem and now after it was fixed is not responding. What next?
This http://www.autozone.com/N,15900430/shopping/partTypeResultSet.htm might be causing it when it gets hot.
Here are the instructions, including the voltage chart for MAP out puts http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/17/8f/18/0900823d80178f18/repairInfoPages.htm .