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2015 Dodge Charger power steering locks up

2015 Dodge Charger intermitant power steering locks up while driving. Lasts a couple of minutes and then clears up. This has happened at least 5 different times in 3 months. Not only the service power steering light comes on, but so does the ABS, the AWD, the brake light, the traction control light. Dealership hasn’t been able to duplicate the problem so they can’t fix it. I have had it at 2 different Dodge Dealerships with the same response. When they hook it up it doesn’t show any issues. Plus my battery has severly depleted twice in the last three months, but have been told the battery is good.

Can you please clarify what you mean by “locks up”? Does it truly stay in one position without you being able to move it at all? Or is it just very hard to turn? If it’s the first case, I’m surprised that this hasn’t led to an accident already.

Unable to turn it while it is doing this. Extremely hard to maneuver. Unfortunately is last a few minutes and then clears off so when I take it for service there are no error codes.

There’s a website that deals with Chrysler products: You could research there and describe your situation at the discussion board for your car. I have found help there for my minivans. Best wishes and please let us know what you find.

When I first read the title The only way I could imagine this happening was something jamming the steering rack. After reading that the problem was intermittent I realized it was a power steering failure not a total steering failure. There is such a difference in steering effort when PS fails or engine stalls without electric driven PS I can understand someone thinking it was locked up.

It is early for this to happen but it could be a serpentine belt/tensioner problem. Observer the belt and tensioner with the engine running. Is everything run smoothly or does the tensioner jump once in a while.
If this was mine I would remove the belt and soin the other driven pulleys by hand trying to feel roughness but it would cost me nothing to do and I am reluctant to tell you to spend money on a long shot.

  • Check the power steering fluid level if applicable.
  • Make sure tires are properly inflated
  • Check PS drive belt condition, and belt tension
  • Check ball joint lube or ball joint damage
  • Check tie rod ends lube
  • Check for faulty PS pump
  • Steering system couplings binding up
  • Steering column binding up
  • Front strut bearing problem
  • Electric steering system malfunction
  • Bad steering gear (often caused by accident damage or hitting severe pothole at speed)

One other idea, there’s two recalls on the AWD feature, for front prop shaft and front driveshaft fasteners. They might have been improperly torqued during manufacturing apparently. Normally all that would happen is the shafts would disconnect and you’d have no front wheel drive component. But something weird might happen that could affect the steering I suppose, so verify those fastener torques have been checked.

The “service power steering system” warning indicates that this vehicle has electric power steering, no pump, fluid or belt. Diagnosing electric power steering problems are a hands-on type of repair.

Hey I am heaving the same problem and it turn out to be the power steering pump which is not a cheap part lucky I have warranty but i have been having the same issue that u r having so my suggestion us to have them look at the pump hope this help you.

I just had the same issue, last couple of days, the electric steering warning light comes on and steering becomes hard, now at idle it cut off and now it won’t start back up. Thank fully it’s just right outside my garage. The thing is, that my car is a 2015 with only 18k on it but since it’s too old, so the warranty is expired. They want $170 to diagnose it which is bullshit!

A diagnostic fee is what you pay for someone to take the time to look at your car. If it were me I would take it to a car parts place and get the battery checked, next most probable to me would be an ignition switch, do you have a lot of keys on your ring?

no, just the key it self, it’s push start lol

Do you mean it cranks ok, but won’t catch and run? Or do you mean it won’t crank — i.e. you don’t hear that rrr rrr rrr sound w/the key in “start”?

That would be a lot for diagnoses if the problem is just a failed battery. Typically if the problem is just a failed battery there won’t be much diagnostic time involved so there won’t be a diagnostic fee other the “test and replace battery” which might total 0.8 hours. They quote $170 over the phone to drive away people with empty pockets.