Absolutely.
Update - Repair shop is waiting on socket to come in but they expect to do more troubleshooting to find the source of the battery drain once that comes in. In the meantime, I’m unplugging the battery whenever the car is in my garage. (I don’t drive to work so it is unplugged most of the time.)
Like i have said before, if you flag at least own up to it. There are several here that seem to think they are the gold standard and will enforce anyone going over the line. They probably drive 55 in the left lane.
To summarize, the comment was made to study electrical systems more. I commented that were it not for army basic training, I was never exposed to an ohm meter in high school or college. Not everyone here is an engineer. I suggested the universal draft may be a way to expose tender foot kids to more masculine subjects. We should not fault. Someone for not being exposed by the public school system, scouts excepted.
So it was all related to general electrical trouble shooting and how one may have learned these skills. This place is getting bad enough anyway without making people mad.
I’m not sure what you’re referring to but I liked your comment in my thread…I must be looking at a different comment though because the post I see had nothing to do with what you clarified.
I may have gotten the wrong thread. This place is so hard to read now with posts jumping around I have almost given up. Should have been in the brake light thread.
Final update: As it turns out, the turn signal issue was caused by the socket. The reason it took so long was just scheduling and waiting for the part to be delivered. I was able to preserve the battery by unplugging it when not in use at home. Ultimately, the issue with the battery drain was unrelated and probably an ID10T error…By the time I brought the car back in to the shop after replacing the socket myself (The supplier for the shop did not have an ETA for the socket so I got one for myself),
the battery drain issue had disappeared. I suspect it was probably the back liftgate not being closed all the way, but unfortunately I destroyed the evidence before I checked. So in the end I paid $11 plus shipping for the socket, I think about $20 for 4 bulbs, and that was it. Bullet dodged.
Oh and by the way…I hope there was some miscommunication because the dealership quoted me $250 for a turn signal socket while I got one from Autozone for about $11.
You didn’t state which bulb/socket stopped working but for the rear, the tail lamp is $230, or the socket w/wiring is $46. Add shipping charges or pick up at a dealer’s parts department.
While you bought one for less, not everyone trusts parts made in China.
At least you didn’t have to join the army to get your lights repaired.
